Hi Hubert and Brad, Sorry I gave the wrong impression... Yes, I mean cutting a long slot down an 8' piece of wood. I'd do 10' or 12' lengths, except that I have to make some plywood inserts, and that only comes in 8'. ;-) Hubert, the first jig you described is exactly what I was considering doing, so I think I must be on the right track. I'll have one person on each end, and we'll do big-ish production runs. I was considering multiple passes with a single blade, each time expanding the kerf. I was going to do one pass with all of the stock, move the jig, do a second pass with all the stock, move the jig once more, and then do all the final passes. I didn't know about the dado sets. Very slick! Thanks for all the safety advice, as I care very much about safety. I learned most of what I know from a couple of folks who were equally compulsive, if not more so. One of them easily had $100K or more in machinery and wasn't about to let me breathe on any of it without a major rundown in safety and proper usage, combined with a lot of nervous supervision thereafter. He ultimately trusted me to use his shop when he wasn't around -- all except for the milling machine, which remained locked up in its own room. NOBODY touched the man's milling machine -- or walked within a 5' radius of it! But yes, it's been quite a while since I've used a table saw, so the refresher was in order. Thanks! :-) Peace, Sarah ----- Original Message ----- From: "hubert liverman" <hubertliverman@bellsouth.net> To: <staff@smithpiano.com>; "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:37 PM Subject: Re: Table saw recommendations? > > Hi Brad, > > I agree with you. I was thinking ripping 8 or12 inch wide by 12 foot > boards, then slotting and cutting to length. It takes forever to type > right > now. > Feather boards,jigs,measurments,and 'real long arms', or a puller. > > A large smile to you for your post. > > Hubert Liverman > Tuner/Tech > Opelika,Al > > > >> Hi Sarah, >> Either way router or table saw will require clamping/jigging if the block > is >> only 1" x 2" >> It would be easier to accomplish if the piece were longer; allowing you >> to >> cut the slot, then slice off smaller pieces. >> You'll likely have to remove the blade guard to do this. >> >> I would use the table saw and some quality stack dado blades. >> If you opt for starting with a longer piece of stock, you can do the >> following: >> >> Assuming the fence is to the 'west' of the blades, you could make two L >> shaped push-blocks that >> would push in a 'southwesterly' direction on the upper right corner of >> the >> piece to be cut, parallel with the fence. >> Make the push blocks 12" long, so you can use one in each hand, and paw > your >> way through the cut, >> moving one, holding the other, always keeping pressure on the piece. >> >> At the end of the cut, your push-down should extend past the stock piece > to >> insure a uniform slot. >> Your body would be at the left (west) side of the table saw, >> feet firmly planted, knees bent, mind clear, attitude humble and >> vigilant, >> center of gravity NEVER over the blades. >> (Harder to type/describe, but hopefully easy to picture) >> >> If you must do it with 1"x2" blocks, you could construct a jig with an >> exactly sized slot to accomodate your block. >> I would make it out of 5/8" plywood to hold the North, East, and South > sides >> of the block against the fence. >> Then, I would make a piece that sits on top of the block, rides against > the >> fence, and is screwed down tight to >> keep the block against the table saw surface. Attached pdf file shows >> the >> idea. >> >> Pass the whole thing over the blades as above, and your larger piece now > has >> the same slot. >> Use it over and over, as long as your blocks are the same size. >> >> It might be just as easy to cut a custom slot into a board, rather than >> build around your 1x2 block. >> >> Move slowly, and take little bites. >> Clean and polish the table saw surface so everything glides like butter. >> Never lose respect for that blade. >> Never stand directly behind the blade, kicked back wood is like shrapnel. >> I have a hole in the back wall of my shop made by such a projectile. >> Once the cut is done and power is off, stand still and stare at the blade >> until it stops completely. >> >> >> Best regards, >> >> Brad Smith, RPT >> www.smithpiano.com >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Sarah Fox [mailto:sarah@graphic-fusion.com] >> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:25 AM >> To: staff@smithpiano.com; Pianotech >> Subject: Re: Table saw recommendations? >> >> >> Hi Brad, >> >> Excellent advice! Too bad I can't even begin to afford the saws you've >> suggested. :-( I might upgrade with aftermarket add-ons later, if needs >> arise. >> >> Your emphasis on jigs leads me to post a question to you (or to anyone > else >> who cares to comment): I have in mind a jig for cutting a 5/16" wide x >> ~3/8" deep rectangular slot through the length of a 1x2 piece of poplar >> stock. I have a choice of doing it with a jig on a router (slowly, with >> lots of heat and noise) or doing three passes through a jig on the table >> saw. I've never used a table saw to cut grooves. Am I asking for >> trouble >> with regard to kickback? I'm thinking that I'll avoid trouble by having >> a >> simple jig that holds the workpiece securely against the table and fence >> (while also covering the blade). However I do this, I want to do it the >> best way, because I'll (hopefully) be cutting LOTS of stock this way. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Peace, >> Sarah >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Brad Smith" <staff@smithpiano.com> >> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 2:19 AM >> Subject: RE: Table saw recommendations? >> >> >> > Hi Sarah, >> > My two cents... or, my $1400... >> > I went through the process a few months back after having destroyed >> > my direct-drive table saw. >> > I chose Delta Unisaw, with extension table and mobile base for same. >> > The mobile base was 'free' with a coupon included in the purchase. >> > http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=4737 >> > Delta has deals like this currently for all the X5 tools. It is 3HP, > cuts >> > thru the maple like butter. You can go to 5HP, if your needs require. >> > Researching, I found so much good news about the Biesmeyer fence, >> > that I added it to my 'must have' criteria. >> > http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=139&p=801 >> > The fence makes the cuts jointer quality, EXACTLY where you want >> > them. The blade tilts to the left. I think it would accommodate a 12" >> > blade, not sure, check first. >> > Had to rewire the shop for 220V, but once you get to the larger saws, >> > most require it. I just got a nice dado set from Home Depot. >> > Diablo Stack Dado Saw Blade Set Model DD208 >> > >> > It's more saw than I currently need, but I plan to move into more >> > woodworking stuff as I gracefully age. >> > My new motto is: "Buy it right, and buy it once". >> > Great tools pay for themselves, and you'll rarely regret getting the >> > 'good stuff'. >> > >> >>From the videos below, I learned about making customized throat >> > plates for the various dado cuts; general woodworking and machine > safety. >> > It's amazing what can be done with home made jigs and post-it note >> > shims. Mastering Woodworking Machines (Taunton Press) Mark >> > Duginske, Andrew Schultz >> > http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/woodworking_machines/0-942391-98-5/ >> > Mark Duginske has some good stuff on using the bandsaw for tenons, >> > with homemade fence, and paper shims to 'dial in' the thickness. He >> > does some dovetail joinery this way, that is really excellent. >> > DVD Mastering Your Table Saw (Taunton Press) Kelly Mehler >> > http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/video-and-dvd/B0001KNH4K/ >> > Great stuff on jigs, sliding miter box, cross cutting, safety, large > piece >> > work, odd shape work in sliding jigs, etc. He makes some jigs using >> > plexiglass, which function as miter box, and blade guard. >> > After viewing these, I'm more skeptical about buying expensive add-on >> > gadgets. (That's saying a lot, since I am a serious tool junkie). To > take >> > advantage of a full size cabinet saw and extension table, you >> > definitely >> > need shop space. I'm using an old lightweight door as a table top for >> > the saw, when not in use. Then, I have positions and wall jigs to move >> > the table top for use as outfeed support. I actually enjoy the >> > challenge >> > of making a small shop space function. >> > Dust collection gets most of it conveniently through the port in back >> > of >> > the >> > saw. Adding dust collection above the blade is my next step. In the > Kelly >> > Mehler video, he uses a blade guard that extends out over the blade, >> > for >> > cuts that require removal of the original guard. >> > Just for fun, you might also check out: http://www.sawstop.com/ >> > They have an ingenius system that would save your fingers, should you >> > momentarily lose focus while cutting. >> > Another good motto: >> > "NEVER TAKE YOUR EYES OFF A MOVING BLADE" >> > Good luck with your purchase! >> > >> > Best regards, >> > Brad Smith, RPT >> > www.smithpiano.com >> > >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Sarah Fox [mailto:sarah@graphic-fusion.com] >> > Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:38 PM >> > To: Pianotech >> > Subject: Table saw recommendations? >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >> > >> >> >> >> >> > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ---- > > >> _______________________________________________ >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >> > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >
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