Goofy 1884 Chickering action advice sought.......

[gordon stelter]

Thanks, but no, the knuckles ARE wood, and always have
been! Shanks 1000% not available, I'm sure. Will post
pics.
     G

--- Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> wrote:

> Gordon,
>          Would a quick bolstering of the knuckles
> provide any addition in 
> hammer height. Seems like it would and restore some
> shape to the currently 
> flat knuckle. I might use several layers of felt
> strips of varying widths 
> in a pyramid shape and then water on the buckskin to
> shrink it over the new 
> felt. Seems like that couldn't take more than a half
> hour or so. If the 
> flanges are indeed propane torched then all bets are
> off and they need new 
> shanks and flanges. You can do what you'd like but
> if it were me I'd shy 
> away from the entire job if they didn't want to do
> it the right way. If the 
> centers are bad then it seems that you have no
> choice but to replace 
> shanks. What's your reputation worth?
> 
> best,
> Greg
> 
> 
> At 07:32 PM 6/9/2005, you wrote:
> >Trying to resuscitate this thing for the hospital
> >lobby.....
> >      "Knuckles" are flat areas of wood on shank
> >undersides.....look like microscopic aircraft
> carrier
> >decks upside down...... intend to clean it all up
> and
> >"figgeritoutbestikan" .
> >      After cleaning with lacquer thiner, what to
> >lubricate these flats with ? ( Currently very
> >burnished & lubed with "MysterySlip" )
> >      No way to adjust hammer height, obviously,
> except
> >hammer rail felt thickness .....
> >      Striking distance ? ( 6'5" model )
> >      'bout all I can think of now. Sage advice
> >(Joe?) appreciated.
> >      Jeepers.
> >      Thump
> >
> >
> >P.S. Some "artiste" decided to "free up" the hammer
> >flanges ( thankfully NOT glued to the rail in this
> >example! ) by blasting them with a propane torch.
> Many
> >are generally charcoal, unavailable, of course, so
> I
> >intend to 1)Remove from rail. 2) Seperate from
> shanks.
> >  3) Clean in lacquer thinner. 4) Dunk in catalyzed
> >lacquer ( or veeeeeeeeery thin epoxy ), also
> dunking
> >the very ends of the shanks, where they connect to
> the
> >flanges. 5) Drill out the old bushings and rebush.
> 6)
> >Mebbe hit with a thin coat of white spray lacquer,
> to
> >make them look a tad less horrid.
> >
> >Please advise/stop me if i'm an idjit.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> 
> Greg Newell
> Greg's piano Forté
> mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net 
> 
> 
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> 



		
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