This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Alan, On most pianos, yes, it would be easier to just replace the pinblock. = But in cases where, as Ed stated "(the) block comprises the upper = portion of the sounding assembly and there was no way to remove it = without completely destroying the piano and starting from scratch" or in = the situation like what I photographed, when the pinblock is mortised = into the case around more than half its perimeter (you would have to = come close to building a new exterior case for the square grand to = remove and replace the pinblock), then plugging rapidly becomes an = efficient approach. Terry Farrell Question (based on zero experience in this procedure): When you have = do all that, wouldn't it be easier, faster, and cheaper just to start = with a new piece of lumber? Alan Barnard Salem, Missouri Pinblock. I assume the plate is out of the piano (how else did you = remove the soundboard?). Plug the block with plugs cut from pinblock = material of your choice. Webb Phillips sells Delignit and maple = multi-lam 1/2-inch and 3/8-inch plugs. Some people drill the same size = hole, use Tightbond and pound them in. I drill an oversize hole and = epoxy them in place with West System. Make heap strong pinblock. = Pinblock look like crap, but get real solid - just like new (or in this = case, likely better). If you want the full story of all my trials and = tribulations on using epoxy in such a case, just holler. Picture of = epoxied-in pinblock plugs (square grand). Terry Farrell SNIP > The block is the last real task to deal with. The block comprises=20 > the upper portion of the sounding assembly and there was no way to = remove it=20 > without completely destroying the piano and starting from scratch. = > The piano was strung with atypical tuning pins, (at least, in = my=20 > experience). They are .250" diameter and only 2 inches long. = These are smaller than=20 > any piano pins I know of, and larger than the zither/harpsichord = pins. The=20 > dainty little plate doesn't encourage me to drill the holes out to = accomodate=20 > the 1/0 pins, and they are all too long,anyhow. I can only = imagine re-using=20 > the originals. There was marginal torque on quite a few of them = prior to=20 > disassembly, so I want to treat the block before driving them = back. =20 > I have, against all my "traditional" training, become! a fan of = CA glue in=20 > the treatment of loose pins, but I wonder if I can't do something = a little=20 > more extreme with this block. I know that some of you have used = the West System=20 > epoxy in block repair, and would like to know what your technique = is. The=20 > block is a solid beech beam with two very thin laminations on top. = Any ideas? =20 > Thanks,=20 >=20 > Ed Foote RPT ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/0f/24/70/84/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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