Ron N wrote: (snip) > I use Baltic Birch plywood and drywall screws. > You aren't holding screw threads here, you're holding screw heads. The > threads are in that fine improved-with-age wood in the piano, which isn't > currently being replaced. No T-nuts required, even if you could figure out > how to install them. Agree with perimeter screws. I was referring to screws to hold pedal springs and pedal mounts. I've seen many of them pull up on pianos - you want something pretty secure to screw into. Perhaps your birch plywood is solid enough. Maybe drilling a proper sized pilot hole helps also. I've seen plywood advertised as such - are the inner plies birch? And are they really from the Baltic Sea area? Not enough yellow birch trees in Minnesota and Ontario? > Stiffness isn't all that critical either, since it's screwed down around > it's perimeter. Front to back, the span isn't long enough to provide enough > flex to be a problem if the bottom board has any stiffness at all. The flex > in the toe rail is a more likely source of problems. If the toe rail is too > flexible, a bottom board of hardwood planking will help, Good point. > but it's easier to brace to the keybed and get around that problem. Brace the bottom board or toe rail to the keybed? How ya gonna do that? Run a vertical piece of wood from the middle of the toe rail to the keybed? > The original > manufacturer of the piano didn't see the need to make the bottom board > flood tolerant, and I don't either. For some years now, I've recommended > that pianos be kept out of water whenever possible. Smarty pants! ;-) Terry Farrell
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