Glues,powders,softeners,etc

antares antares@euronet.nl
Thu, 13 Jan 2005 19:50:27 +0100


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On 12-jan-05, at 23:48, John Ross wrote:

> Hi Andre,
> The hammer glue, it=A0is very hard to remove the hammer on a broken=20
> shank.
> I have had some success with heat, how do you remove the Yamaha hammer=20=

> heads?
> Best regards,
>

> John M. Ross
> Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
> ----- Original Message -----
>

The Yamaha hammers heads are removed best in two ways :

You use a hammer extractor or you use heat.
A hammer extractor is the easiest , heat is cleaner but much slower.
The Yamaha glue when heated, with a heated pliers for instance, turns=20
rubbery and the hammer head comes off clean and undamaged.

Our glue is just like that.


Andr=E9 Oorebeek




> Well, for one, we have developed a glue for gluing hammers only which=20=

> is just like the Yamaha hammer glue.
> It is a white, expanding, glue, does not drip and thus forms a nice=20
> collar or ring around the shank.
> We just improved it and found the perfect formula, meaning that it is=20=

> perfect. It gets stone hard and forms a very tight connection between=20=

> the hammer head and the shank. The fact that it expands means that the=20=

> drilling can be wide. This gives you ample time to position the=20
> hammers.
>
> Powders : I use only pure teflon powder.
>
> Hardener : I only use colodion.
>
> Softener : never use it. We usually don't soften hammers with=20
> chemicals but with needling.
>
> friendly greetings
> from
> Andr=E9 Oorebeek
>
> Vita Dura Est
>
>
friendly greetings
from
Andr=E9 Oorebeek

Vita Dura Est


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