FW: general finishing question

[D.L. Bullock]

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I do not do major sanding after the filler.  First, I stain like it will be.
Then, I give a thinned wash-coat of shellac, apply black paste wood filler,
remove it with a credit card or razor blade.  Do only a good scrub with
burlap and very fine sanding just to get the dirt.  I like the look the
orange shellac gives to fine wood.  This should leave you with a surface
ready to finish.  Yes ,you can spray lacquer over shellac if you mist on the
first couple of coats and dry it fast.  If you lay down a heavy coat
everything crackles by the time it dries.

D.L. Bullock    St. Louis
www.thepianoworld.com

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  -----Original Message-----
  From: Mark Potter [mailto:bases-loaded76@sbcglobal.net]
  Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 6:21 PM
  To: Pianotech
  Subject: Re: general finishing question


  Terry <terry@farrellpiano.com> wrote:
    Hi Mark,

    If you stain before filling grain, when sanding the dried grain filler,
how do you avoid sanding through the shellac and/or stain? I seem to be
grain-fill/stain challanged! Are you using water based grain filler?

    Hi Terry -
    I have used both water-based filler and solvent-based filler, and either
way, sanding the stuff without sanding thru the color IS a challenge that
requires constant vigilance while sanding.  I wish I had a magic word or two
to pass on to you, but I don't.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, sanding
the filler in the exact same manner that you sanded the bare wood is a
necessary starting point.

    When you don't use grain filler, how many coats of top-coat do you find
is required to get a level finish - or do you live with the grain
depressions in this approach?

    Naturally all woods are not identical, but generally I would say that
mahogany sanded to 220, dyed and sealed with at least a 2lb cut of shellac,
will require app. 6 total applied coats of water-based material to fill the
grain.  I just sprayed one last week where I stopped at 5 total coats of
water-based, and there is the ever-so-slight amount of grain showing, a look
I have warmed to of late.

    Mark

    Terry Farrell


      Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> wrote:
        Mark,
        So during the finishing process is when you re-add the missing
        filler and stain, right?

        Greg Newell

        Hi Greg -

        Yes.  First I would use dyes to get the color I want, then seal them
with a wash coat of shellac.  If I AM gonna use filler that would be next,
although oftentimes I don't use it.  Then, if necessary, a few very thin
toning coats (tinted shellac, usually) on miscellaneous pieces to even up
the color ( and, BTW, this does NOT have to make the finish look muddy, as
you earlier suggested!), then on with the coats of finish.

        Mark Potter


        At 06:06 AM 2/18/2005, you wrote:
        >Greg Newell wrote:
        >
        >When those of you who do, refinish a piano do you remove the filler
during
        >the stripping process?
        >
        >Hi Greg - It is not a "goal", per se, for me. Whatever volunteers
to
        >come out during the stripping process, as well as the rinsing and
        >scrubbing with maroon scotchbrite or #1 steel wool, is the extent
of my
        >endeavors in this regard. I then sand with 150 - 220 and start the
        >finishing process.
        >
        >No brass brushes for me...
        >
        >Mark Potter

        Greg Newell
        Greg's piano Forti
        mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net


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