This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment I do not do major sanding after the filler. First, I stain like it will be. Then, I give a thinned wash-coat of shellac, apply black paste wood filler, remove it with a credit card or razor blade. Do only a good scrub with burlap and very fine sanding just to get the dirt. I like the look the orange shellac gives to fine wood. This should leave you with a surface ready to finish. Yes ,you can spray lacquer over shellac if you mist on the first couple of coats and dry it fast. If you lay down a heavy coat everything crackles by the time it dries. D.L. Bullock St. Louis www.thepianoworld.com Do you or your family have a health challenge? Put YOUR BODY'S OWN IMMUNE SYSTEM to work for you----It is capable of repairing itself from EVERY disease if you give it the right fuel. Visit http://bullock.myglycostore.com to get the right fuel Visit http://bullock.goldenkeys.net/ to investigate a great automated home based business to get your products for free. -----Original Message----- From: Mark Potter [mailto:bases-loaded76@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 6:21 PM To: Pianotech Subject: Re: general finishing question Terry <terry@farrellpiano.com> wrote: Hi Mark, If you stain before filling grain, when sanding the dried grain filler, how do you avoid sanding through the shellac and/or stain? I seem to be grain-fill/stain challanged! Are you using water based grain filler? Hi Terry - I have used both water-based filler and solvent-based filler, and either way, sanding the stuff without sanding thru the color IS a challenge that requires constant vigilance while sanding. I wish I had a magic word or two to pass on to you, but I don't. As I mentioned in an earlier post, sanding the filler in the exact same manner that you sanded the bare wood is a necessary starting point. When you don't use grain filler, how many coats of top-coat do you find is required to get a level finish - or do you live with the grain depressions in this approach? Naturally all woods are not identical, but generally I would say that mahogany sanded to 220, dyed and sealed with at least a 2lb cut of shellac, will require app. 6 total applied coats of water-based material to fill the grain. I just sprayed one last week where I stopped at 5 total coats of water-based, and there is the ever-so-slight amount of grain showing, a look I have warmed to of late. Mark Terry Farrell Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> wrote: Mark, So during the finishing process is when you re-add the missing filler and stain, right? Greg Newell Hi Greg - Yes. First I would use dyes to get the color I want, then seal them with a wash coat of shellac. If I AM gonna use filler that would be next, although oftentimes I don't use it. Then, if necessary, a few very thin toning coats (tinted shellac, usually) on miscellaneous pieces to even up the color ( and, BTW, this does NOT have to make the finish look muddy, as you earlier suggested!), then on with the coats of finish. Mark Potter At 06:06 AM 2/18/2005, you wrote: >Greg Newell wrote: > >When those of you who do, refinish a piano do you remove the filler during >the stripping process? > >Hi Greg - It is not a "goal", per se, for me. Whatever volunteers to >come out during the stripping process, as well as the rinsing and >scrubbing with maroon scotchbrite or #1 steel wool, is the extent of my >endeavors in this regard. I then sand with 150 - 220 and start the >finishing process. > >No brass brushes for me... > >Mark Potter Greg Newell Greg's piano Forti mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/4f/13/03/20/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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