This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment I prefer to remove keybed and lay on back on a tilter. Easier to adjust = your height than the piano. Arledge strings are the cat's meow. Are you S-U-R-E the soundboard is okay?????? Hmmmmmmm??? I highly recommend that at a minimum to pull all the bridge pins and = epoxy new pins in place. Preferably also plane down the bridge top to = the base of the string indentations (but that might be hard if you are = not removing plate - maybe something to consider). Have you taken a R-E-A-L close look at downbearing (and soundboard crown = between all ribs)? Perhaps you will wish to tweak plate height for = optimal downbearing? Is the butt leather in good condition? Damper springs? Etc., etc....... Terry Farrell ----- Original Message -----=20 From: richard.ucci@att.net=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 8:17 AM Subject: upright rebuild Hi Folks, I'm about to embark on an 1920's era upright partial rebuild. = Restring, New Hammers, Jack Springs, Butt Felts, Bridle Straps,Dampers. = I'm looking for any advice on order of tasks, also, how many of you = remove the keybed and string the piano on its back?=20 Do you use something to raise the piano up to a comfortable height for = stringing? I have a workbench that will hold 1,000 lbs ,also have = tilter. I've committed Reblitz to memory and also have most of the = Spurlock pamphlets. Also, has anyone tried Arlidge strings? Soundboard ,ribs,and bridges are good , keys don't need rebushing yet. = =20 Thanks, Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/4e/bd/69/0c/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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