refinishing frustrations--P.S.

[Greg Newell]

P.S.
         I have tried to color match by adding some blonde shellac as 
binder with extra dark walnut powder dye in with the shellac. Should I 
start over again and strip better?

Greg


At 10:41 PM 4/26/2005, you wrote:
>The only sanding you want to do is very light
>sanding---with 220 paper- to remove grain-raising
>caused by the bleach ( water-based ) solution, prior
>to staining.  And after sealer coats to level a bit &
>take off "hairs". Then between coats with 320-400 grit
>W$D if leveling is necessary. Level drips with a
>scraper, or razor blade ) if possible.
>      DON'T CUT YOURSELF!!!!!
>      G
>
>--- gordon stelter <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Do absolutely NOTHING until you have a good
> > carbon-filter mask, gloves and goggles on hand!
> > Strip. I use chemicals and a brass brush ( fine,
> > soft,
> > as is found in groceries for pot-scrubbing---not the
> > harder, denser type as usually sold for stripping! )
> >
> >      Do everything with the grain direction, of
> > course.
> >      This gets the filler and stain out of the pores
> > as much as possible. Old filler witn stripping
> > chemicals in it can cause finishing problems, later.
> > Wipe with rags in alcohol or lacquer thinner. Finish
> > with paper towels in same. If you don't have a
> > stripping table ( a very good idea ) do it over big
> > pieces of cardboard from the furniture store, such
> > as
> > couches are shipped in. Do youir stripping in thje
> > shade, but leave the cardboard in the sun to dry,
> > evaporating out the toxic solvents before you
> > discard
> > ( or re-use ) them.  NEVER try to sand trhe woodto
> > an
> > even color! You will only make it uglier, and thin
> > the
> > veneer. DO bleach with chlorine bleach to remove
> > aniline strain, oxalic acid for ring marks, hydrogen
> > peroxide to lighten the wood itself.
> >     Stain. Seal. Fill. Seal. Build topcoats. That's
> > my
> > way. I've only used lacquer in the past, but am
> > interested in waterbased. Hmmmmmm. Think I'll check
> > the "Pianolac" website now.
> >      Thump.
> >
> > Go buy Biob Flexners' books on finishing and read.
> >
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Greg Newell
Greg's piano Forté
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net