refinishing frustrations--P.S.

[gordon stelter]

The only sanding you want to do is very light
sanding---with 220 paper- to remove grain-raising
caused by the bleach ( water-based ) solution, prior
to staining.  And after sealer coats to level a bit &
take off "hairs". Then between coats with 320-400 grit
W$D if leveling is necessary. Level drips with a
scraper, or razor blade ) if possible.
     DON'T CUT YOURSELF!!!!!
     G
  
--- gordon stelter <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Do absolutely NOTHING until you have a good
> carbon-filter mask, gloves and goggles on hand!
> Strip. I use chemicals and a brass brush ( fine,
> soft,
> as is found in groceries for pot-scrubbing---not the
> harder, denser type as usually sold for stripping! )
> 
>      Do everything with the grain direction, of
> course.
>      This gets the filler and stain out of the pores
> as much as possible. Old filler witn stripping
> chemicals in it can cause finishing problems, later.
> Wipe with rags in alcohol or lacquer thinner. Finish
> with paper towels in same. If you don't have a 
> stripping table ( a very good idea ) do it over big
> pieces of cardboard from the furniture store, such
> as
> couches are shipped in. Do youir stripping in thje
> shade, but leave the cardboard in the sun to dry,
> evaporating out the toxic solvents before you
> discard
> ( or re-use ) them.  NEVER try to sand trhe woodto
> an
> even color! You will only make it uglier, and thin
> the
> veneer. DO bleach with chlorine bleach to remove
> aniline strain, oxalic acid for ring marks, hydrogen
> peroxide to lighten the wood itself.
>     Stain. Seal. Fill. Seal. Build topcoats. That's
> my
> way. I've only used lacquer in the past, but am
> interested in waterbased. Hmmmmmm. Think I'll check
> the "Pianolac" website now.
>      Thump.
> 
> Go buy Biob Flexners' books on finishing and read. 
> 
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