This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Dave, For light-colored opaque, you might try the West Microlight Filler #410 instead of the white colorant - since it shouldn't affect cure rate or bond strength as much as the colorant. Comes out kind of dark ivory. I use it in combination with powdered chalk (packaged for chalk lines), a little yellow, and very little red. Nice picture - can hardly see the repair. I've attached the only picture I could find of my formula, I think it's before I started adding the pinch of red. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: David V. Anderson To: pianotech@ptg.org Sent: 4/12/2005 10:37:21 AM Subject: RE: Epoxy Soundboard Repair- Coloring of Epoxy My formula recently has been the System Three epoxy colorant. This is a stiff, opaque paste, designed to work with epoxy resins. Two cautions: The color slows the hardening time considerably, renders the epoxy less brittle, and too much will prevent it from hardening altogether. (at least on a non-geologic time scale). Also, the color tends to weaken bond strength and the epoxys ability to flow and expel air. I usually start with a batch of clear epoxy to wet the crack and fill to the bottom. I have used them with West Systems resin and slow hardener, and I would assume they work fine with System Threes own products. I have purchased the paste in yellow, brown, and most importantly, white. I believe they also make red, which would probably be handy in tiny amounts to orange up the mix. Just adding the colors makes too deep a saturation long before the desired level of opacity is reached, so start with white. With a semi-translucent white base, much less of the deeper colors are needed. Experiment with how much, but less is definitely better. I add the smallest amount of paste necessary to do the job. A batch that wont cure would be a real disappointment, and I disclaim all responsibility for such an outcome. Even with the color, this stuff will migrate. I have come within an inch or so of the end of a crack that diminished to zero width, and have had it wick to the very end. It does tend to trap air bubbles, so be careful mixing and actively squeegee it in over its entire pot life. Tapping the board at intervals seems to help. The photo shows an unfinished board with two filled cracks. As was mentioned earlier, check color against a wet board for a closer match. These did match quite well when finished. Like many others on the list, Im not trying to make cracks disappear, or pretend they never happened. But they should still be pretty to look at with all your plate work, shiny pins, and that expensive decal. If making them somewhat attractive really werent an objective, wed color them blue! David V. Anderson, RPT Waukesha, WI ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/6c/95/36/69/attachment.htm ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8-- ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: epoxy repair 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 108971 bytes Desc: epoxy repair 1.jpg Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/b4/66/4e/28/epoxyrepair1.jpg ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment--
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