Replacing front and balance rail pins

[Ron Nossaman]

>I recommend a "dent puller" type system, for removing.

That's what I use. A slide hammer with Vise-Grip.


>After they're out, glue size with 50-50 cold hide glue & water.

Titebond works fine too.


>Let dry. (overnight, if possible.) I made two punches for inserting the 
>pins, out of steel rod. Drill to the approximate depth, then grind to fine 
>tune the height of the pins.

Except that when you find the pins are different heights on the next piano. 
That's why I use scrap maple. I cut a piece to the length of the height of 
the pin, and cut a channel out of the side with the band saw so I can slip 
it around the pin from the side, and hammer the pin in until it's level 
with the block. Very like the dowel idea that was posted. Also, I do it 
when the Titebond sizing is still soft. The pin goes in easier, which is 
easier on the plating, and doesn't mushroom the top, and is just as solid 
the next day as waiting for the glue to dry before driving the pins.


>Of course, you'll need a drill press w/"x-y" vise for accuracy.

Nonsense! If you want to drill a hole in the center of a rod for a punch, 
chuck the rod in the drill press, the bit in a drill press vise, and lower 
the spinning rod onto the bit. Do it gently, and it will self center more 
accurately than you are ever going to get it with a cross feed vise. Come 
on, Joe. Machinists have been doing this for at least 150 years. It's about 
time we stole the idea for our own use.

Ron N