Thanks for the comments, Robin. The piano is 4'10", quite small, but interestingly doesn't seem small, if that makes any sense. SN 51124. One of the action rails has a 1923 date stamped on the end. Many baby grands look "truncated" to me whereas this one looks more to be proportionately scaled down. I will post scale measurements when I have them, but I thought it was interesting to have wound trichords at the high end of the bass bridge - something I haven't seen before. The soundboard seems to be quite solid and the sound is still strong with lots of sustain (ignoring the dead bass strings and flattened hammers). I won't be making any rash decisions in that department. Right now it's in my garage with a dehumidifier at about 45% and I'll let it sit a few weeks to make sure nothing develops. I thought about putting a small (25W) light bulb under the piano to help dry it, but I don't want to *encourage* cracks, so I think not. I tried reshaping one of the flattened hammers and a much fuller tone resulted, bright but without the harshness of the flat strike points. I tend to agree with you about the bridges. The treble bridge has only a few hairline cracks, while the bass bridge is really splitting in places. The workmanship is amazing on these - I don't think my photos do them justice. Note the maker's mark on the treble bridge photo. > The pictures suggests that the pins are loose in the birdseye, even if the > bushings themselves are OK. Not sure what you're seeing here, but I will check these more closely. Silk cords - yes once they start to go... These are installed with little pegs holding them in place. Probably glued also. Another "feature" - a small bellows at the left end of the fallboard, presumably some sort of "slow fall" damping mechanism (fallboard is two-piece with hinge in middle of keys). -Mark > I am surprised to see the piano was made this late if it has agraffes all > the > way to the top. Perhaps I'll learn something here. The whippen shown in > the > picture, though, is quite modern and not like the one used in HF Miller up > until > the 1880's or so. So here you have one antique characteristic- the lack > of a > Capo, and one modern one - the type of whippen. How long is the piano? > > These are tremendous pianos, in the very front rank, in my opinion. At > least > the ones up until the second decade or so of the last century. > > > In my opinion, on this piano the best course, given adequate downbearing, > or the > possibility of acquiring it by a plate adjustment or aliquot change, would > be to > pull the bridge pins and seat them in either epoxy or CA. One should try > to > allow the material to flow out into the cracks. The bass bridge probably > should > be recapped. > > > The suggestion elsewhere to replace the board is entirely inappropriate, > either > for learning purposes or technical reasons, in my opinion. Just be sure > there > is some measurable crown in it. One should choose intelligently where to > apply resources so they will be put to best use. The board on this piano > is > very likely to be perfectly adequate and an expert installation of high > quality > material and your chances of replicating this at this point, with a > generic, off > the shelf soundboard, are, pardon me for being frank, zero to nill. Not > to > mention why take on another headache when one temple is pounding already? > By > that I mean the legion of details to be attended to in doing a good job of > rebuilding what is already there. > > The pictures suggests that the pins are loose in the birdseye, even if the > bushings themselves are OK. > > The cords are a time bomb waiting to go off and should be replaced. Also > the > pining looks suspiciously like it may be loose, at least on the rep lever. > > > One has to be careful with a replacement for the hammers as the shape in > this > area is extremely critical if it is to clear well. > You should be able to wind up with a great piano, make a profit and > acquire a > valuable bit of expertise. > Regards, Robin Hufford >
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