Epoxy/bridge pins application

[pianolover 88]

Just for clarification, do you advise simply positioning the pins, then 
applying epoxy, or do you actually **REMOVE** the pins first (the loose 
ones), apply epoxy into the hole(s), then push pins back in, and position?

Also, West Systems 105 resin and 206 hardner is quite thin as it is. I 
thought adding a "filler" would be better for filling the larger cracks.

Terry Peterson



----Original Message Follows----
From: "Joe Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
To: "pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Subject: Re: Epoxy/bridge pins application
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2004 09:49:20 -0700

Paul C said: " Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, 
whatever, after you
place it on the cracks.  It becomes very thin and migrates into the cracks
very well, but also sets quickly.  Use some tape to build dams around the
area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat.  Allow
24 hours to cure. Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, 
whatever, after you
place it on the cracks.  It becomes very thin and migrates into the cracks
very well, but also sets quickly.  Use some tape to build dams around the
area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat.  Allow
24 hours to cure."

   Paul C,
Either you didn't read my method or you chose to dismiss it! :-(
My method, (which was a product of Darrell Fandrich's inventiveness), 
applies the heat, THEN the epoxy, (in a SMALL amount sufficient to do the 
job w/o slathering the damned stuff all over the damned place!!!!! Yes, it 
takes a little longer to do than Bill's method, but it's neater, and 
esthetically better, IMO. Same system/different method, (that predates 
Bill's method by about 10 years!<G>)


   Paul C

Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I

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