This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Joe Read your method after I responded. Granted, what I described can be messy. One needs to be judicious with the epoxy. Preheating the epoxy after mixing allows it to be drizzled into place, and speeds up the cure which can be helpful. Clean up is easy with a sharp chisal when the epoxy reaches a stiff gum state; acetone to follow, but be careful not to wash out the cracks. Paul C Subject: Re: Epoxy/bridge pins application Paul C said: " Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, whatever, after you place it on the cracks. It becomes very thin and migrates into the cracks very well, but also sets quickly. Use some tape to build dams around the area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat. Allow 24 hours to cure. Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, whatever, after you place it on the cracks. It becomes very thin and migrates into the cracks very well, but also sets quickly. Use some tape to build dams around the area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat. Allow 24 hours to cure." Paul C, Either you didn't read my method or you chose to dismiss it! :-( My method, (which was a product of Darrell Fandrich's inventiveness), applies the heat, THEN the epoxy, (in a SMALL amount sufficient to do the job w/o slathering the damned stuff all over the damned place!!!!! Yes, it takes a little longer to do than Bill's method, but it's neater, and esthetically better, IMO. Same system/different method, (that predates Bill's method by about 10 years!<G>) Paul C Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/f4/8f/fe/7a/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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