Glue; bridge pins/Terry

[Joe Garrett]

Terry,
The large heavy duty soldering iron is used to heat the bridge pins. I use
regular clear epoxy that I get from the local hobby store. (It's more apt to
be fresh.) It's clear and usually says: "30 minute epoxy" or something like
that. No, it don't set up that fast.<G> It will give you about 15-20 minutes
per batch, of working time. I mix in small batches, because you don't need
large quantities. 1st, get the soldering iron hot. While it's heating up, I
like to take a #3 nail set and seat all the bridge pins in their intended
position. (look out for too deep holes!) I have a special stand for the
soldering iron, so it doesn't fall off and burn something important, (like
the soundboard!)(Don't ask!<G>) Then mix up a batch of epoxy, (a dollar size
amount is about as big as you want at a time.) Put the soldering iron on a
bridge pin, so you can apply the epoxy to the side of the pin opposite from
the side the string touches. One drop on the tip of a round/wood cocktail
toothpick is applied to the side of the pin. When you see the stuff start to
wick down the pin, into the cap, IMMEDIATELY take the soldering iron off of
that pin and put it on the next one. Once you do this a bit, you'll get a
rhythm going. Trick is, don't apply too much epoxy, so your cleanup is less
of a chore. Do not let the epoxy get too hot. Bubbling is too hot. Smoke is
definately too hot!!! The reason for the big bertha soldering iron, is that
it will hold enough heat all the time. This type of soldering iron is
usually found in the olde fashioned hardware stores, in the plumbing
section. But then again, maybe not. I've forgotten what the wattage is, but
it's not like the wimpy little soldering guns for electronics, etc. They
will not work for this operation. Well, that's pretty much it. I clean up
with a dry rag and brass wire brush, (suede brush). Let it all set up for at
least 24 hours. then if some more clean up is necessary, I use dental tools
to get into the nooks and crannies. Do not put Dag on the bridge for at
least 72 hours. It has alcohol in it. Since alcohol is  solvent to clean up
epoxy, it will deteriorate the strength of the epoxy, if it hasn't reached a
full cure. (another, Don't Ask!<G>) I hope that is clear. If not, feel free
to ask for clarification. Oh, just thought of something else: when the epoxy
doesn't seem to wick very well, it's time for a fresh batch. I will usually
mix about 5-8 batches for an entire piano....so, pay attention to how it
wicks!
Best Regards,
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "pianolover 88" <pianolover88@hotmail.com>
To: <joegarrett@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: Glue; bridge pins/Terry


> <My preferred method is fairly old, but has proven good. Epoxy and Heavy
> Duty Soldering Iron. It's time consuming, but works well.>
>
>
> Interesting. What is the soldering iron used for, and what kind of epoxy
do
> you use? Thanks!
>
> Terry Peterson
>
>
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: &quot;Joe Garrett&quot; &lt;joegarrett@earthlink.net&gt;
> Reply-To: Pianotech &lt;pianotech@ptg.org&gt;
> To: &quot;pianotech&quot; &lt;pianotech@ptg.org&gt;
> Subject: Re: Glue; bridge pins/Terry
> Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 18:47:06 -0700
>
> Terry,
> My preferred method is fairly old, but has proven good. Epoxy and Heavy
Duty
> Soldering Iron. It's time consuming, but works well.
> Best Regards,
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain, Tool Police
> Squares R I
>
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