Glue; bridge pins

[ilex cameron ross]

i second the request, as i am looking at a similar situation on the piano i
just bought. however, i do have the option of purchasing a new bridge, as
it's my piano, but none of the cracks are major - just enlarged holes. and
yes, i will be perusing our archives, i just wondered if anyone had *new*
perspectives?
-ilex

}-----Original Message-----
}From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On
}Behalf Of pianolover 88
}Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 6:37 PM
}To: pianotech@ptg.org
}Subject: RE: Glue; bridge pins
}
}
}I know this topic has been brought up many, many times over the
}years, but I
}wanted to maybe get some fresh perspectives, in case there are improved
}methods. I'm in the process of restringing an old "Leland" baby grand, and
}also major action restoration. These procedures have pretty much
}depleted my
}customers budget, so the added cost of major bride rebuilding is
}out of the
}question, at least for quite a long while.
}My question is, both bridges have some cracking and loose pins where the
}holes have become enlarged.  I am going to fill these cracks and
}holes with
}either epoxy or  CA glue and i wanted to get opinions as to the merits of
}both. My instincts tell me that I should probably start with thin CA first
}to seep into the cracks, then the thicker gap filling CA (like
}"Orange super
}T)  to fill the larger cracks and extra space around pin holes. I
}appreciate
}all the advice in this regard. Thanks!
}
}Terry Peterson
}
}
}
}----Original Message Follows----
}From: "Joe Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net>
}Reply-To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
}To: "pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
}Subject: Glue, in the field
}Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 08:13:03 -0700
}
}Cy asked: "Joe,
}
}What do you use in the field for a joint that needs to come apart in =
}future, such as replacing a broken hammershank?
}
}--Cy Shuster--
}Bluefield, WV
}
}Cy,
}I use Cold Hide Glue, (Franklin's). However, there's a trick to getting it
}to set up fairly quickly: When I anticipate the gluing on of a
}hammer shank
}and/or hammer, I request a coffee mug half full of the hottest tap water,
}(approx. 110-120 degrees F). I carry a small bottle of Cold Hide
}glue, that
}will fit into the coffee mug. While I am doing the prep work, the glue is
}heating in the mug. By the time the prep work is done, the glue is
}hot...er..warm, I'd est. about 80-90 degrees. I've found that this
}will get
}the glue to set up much faster, so that I feel confident that the hammer
}won't go out of alignment, 10 minutes after I'm out the door! (Yikes!
}DAMHIK!!!<G>)
}If I am gluing a hammer shank, using a straw splint, I use Titebond. (Now,
}I'll be using Titebond III). BTW, I don't like the Titebond container/tip
}size/configuration, so I empty an Elmer's white glue bottle, clean
}thoroughly and refill with Titebond. The reason being, that many times I
}need a very small orfice, (pinpoint, if you will), to force the glue into
}cracks. The Elmer's bottle will do that w/o "collapsing!
}Best Regards,
}Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
}Captain, Tool Police
}Squares R I
}
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