This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Cy asked: "Joe, What do you use in the field for a joint that needs to come apart in =3D future, such as replacing a broken hammershank? --Cy Shuster-- Bluefield, WV Cy, I use Cold Hide Glue, (Franklin's). However, there's a trick to getting = it to set up fairly quickly: When I anticipate the gluing on of a hammer = shank and/or hammer, I request a coffee mug half full of the hottest tap = water, (approx. 110-120 degrees F). I carry a small bottle of Cold Hide = glue, that will fit into the coffee mug. While I am doing the prep work, = the glue is heating in the mug. By the time the prep work is done, the = glue is hot...er..warm, I'd est. about 80-90 degrees. I've found that = this will get the glue to set up much faster, so that I feel confident = that the hammer won't go out of alignment, 10 minutes after I'm out the = door! (Yikes! DAMHIK!!!<G>) If I am gluing a hammer shank, using a straw splint, I use Titebond. = (Now, I'll be using Titebond III). BTW, I don't like the Titebond = container/tip size/configuration, so I empty an Elmer's white glue = bottle, clean thoroughly and refill with Titebond. The reason being, = that many times I need a very small orfice, (pinpoint, if you will), to = force the glue into cracks. The Elmer's bottle will do that w/o = "collapsing! Best Regards, Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/47/26/88/0b/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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