Titebond III

[Joe Garrett]

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The Thumper asked: "So, d'ya think Titebond III is more akoostikly
transparent ( being more sandable ) than II? Wouldja
yoose it for sb shims, delaminated rims, etc ???"

Thumper,
NOPE!
So far, (I've been testing for a couple of weeks), I like it a little =
better than Titebond, but only because it's a bit stronger and doesn't =
clog up the sandpaper quite as bad.=20
For the things you mentioned there are better bonding agents!=20
It's a good glue for in the field repairs, but not for putting on =
hammers or gluing something back together that you can't get apart and =
clean the residual glue off of. It stays soft for a way too long period =
for anything other than (fresh)wood to (fresh)wood bonding, IMO.
The rule should be: If you don't want it to ever to come apart, use =
Titebond or Weldwood glue. If you can envision a need to replace =
something in the future...USE HIDE GLUE! The project I'm working on now, =
is a mickey mouse repair RErepair, where I have to take things apart and =
fix them. Sheesh! Contact Cement, Titebond/yellow glue, White glue (of =
dubious origin) and epoxy were used in a situation that dictated that =
the parts would eventually gonna have to be taken apart. Gawd, what fun =
trying to unhinge some of that crap! Gosh, I'm really havin' fun =
here.<G> :-(
Oh, on the positive side, the Titebond III seems to be less obnoxious in =
the finishing department, as in a visible glue line type of thingee. =
Because of it's color, it tends to blend better and takes a stain, just =
a bit, so that's a good thingee. Stay tuned.<G>
Give it a try and report back, please!???
Best Regards,
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I
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