I thought people layed them on a hot-plate at the appropriate temperature.... David I. ----- Original message ----------------------------------------> From: Joe And Penny Goss <imatunr@srvinet.com> To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> Received: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 10:01:00 -0700 Subject: Re: making key bushing cauls >Hi Paul, >Try putting the brass cauls in a pan of heated water, not boiling mind you, >but very hot, rheostat controled. >Joe Goss RPT >Mother Goose Tools >imatunr@srvinet.com >www.mothergoosetools.com >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Monday, November 15, 2004 9:26 AM >Subject: RE: making key bushing cauls >> Subject: Re: making key bushing cauls >> >> >> I'd like to see a side-by-side trial of the "Bushmaster" method and the >> Spurlock system. I use the Spurlock system and love it, but I have never >> tried the other. Anyone used both? Opinions? I recall can't imagine >anything >> slicker than the Spurlock system. >> >> Terry Farrell >> >> I've used both and have come up with a hybrid system: I use the Spurlock >> system with hot hide glue, but with brass cauls. The thickest brass caul >is >> used to hold the first bushing in place, the required size is used for the >> other side. Then I place a clothes iron (set on cotton) on top of the >final >> cauls. This reactivates the hide glue, sizes the bushing hole in the key >> and sets the cloth bushing to the caul. Let stand over night. The key >hole >> sizing step is eliminated, as well as any easing. Steaming the old >bushings >> out will also size the balance rail. >> >> Paul C >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >> >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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