Moistureproofing shop - now stage box

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Yeh, there has been a lot of that lately <O:(( <g>
Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Kinnear" <jim@pianoguy.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: Moistureproofing shop - now stage box 


> Perhaps its something to do with 'hot air rising' and taking the resident
> moisture with it . . . kind of like when we put our wet mittens over a
> heater . . .
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Jim Kinnear
> www.kinnearpiano.com
> Collingwood, ON, Canada
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 12:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Moistureproofing shop - now stage box
> 
> 
> > Nice explanation, Sarah, but I think a dehumidifier
> > dripping to the outside in a sealed box is the best
> > way to go. Speaking of which: how do Dampp Chaser bars
> > dry out piano parts, as increased heat in a closed box
> > such as piano case only allows more moisture to reside
> > in the air?
> >      Thump
> >
> >
> >      G
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Sarah Fox <sarah@graphic-fusion.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Bob,
> > >
> > > Dehumidifier bars *alone* won't do it, as the RH
> > > will rise in the booth as
> > > moisture comes out of the wood.  There has to be
> > > some way of transferring
> > > the moisture from the inside to the outside.  This
> > > can be achieved with some
> > > degree of ventillation in combination with the
> > > dehumidifier rods.  (In other
> > > words, don't have the chamber too air tight.)
> > > Fresh, cool air will enter
> > > the chamber at some higher RH, and then it will be
> > > heated, driving down the
> > > RH.  The air will then absorb moisture, and the RH
> > > will rise.  But
> > > eventually, the warmer, moist air is vented to the
> > > outside (the way the
> > > moisture is transferred), and it is replaced by
> > > cooler moist air, which can
> > > be heated to lower the RH.  Put another way, cool
> > > air of a given RH has less
> > > total moisture than warm air of the same RH.  Makes
> > > sense???  If you use the
> > > heat approach, you'll find some very cheap and
> > > effective ceramic heaters at
> > > the hardware store (perhaps $15 for 1000W of heat).
> > > There's no need to blow
> > > lots of money on dehumidifier rods, and the
> > > efficiency is exactly the same.
> > >
> > > A noisier but more effective way to dehumidify is
> > > with a running
> > > compressor-type dehumidifier, which will condense
> > > the moisture out of the
> > > air and drain it to the outside.  I think you can
> > > get one of these things
> > > for around $150.  I don't know which of these two
> > > methods would be more
> > > energy efficient.
> > >
> > > A third way to dehumidify would be with a dessicant
> > > in an *air-tight*
> > > chamber.  (This might be useful for pinblock
> > > material, but it gets somewhat
> > > impractical on a large scale.)  There's a
> > > product/company called Drierite,
> > > out of Xenia, OH.  You can find it on the web. You
> > > can buy the stuff fairly
> > > economically in 50 lb bags.  Drierite draws moisture
> > > out of the air and
> > > incorporates it into its crystal composition.
> > > Depending on the variety you
> > > buy, the stuff can have an indicator that changes
> > > color when it has soaked
> > > up as much moisture as it is able.  It looks a bit
> > > like blue kitty litter
> > > and turns pink with moisture absorption.  If I
> > > remember correctly, it can
> > > absorb about 5 or 10% of its weight in water.  When
> > > the stuff is
> > > "exhausted," you can heat it in an oven to drive off
> > > the water, so that you
> > > can re-use it.
> > >
> > > Peace,
> > > Sarah
> > >
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> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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