Finishing ivories

[Dave Nereson]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stéphane Collin" <collin.s@skynet.be>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 7:20 AM
Subject: Finishing ivories


> Dear list,
>
> I am pretty proud of my latest ivory tops cleaning, bleaching, gluing,
> shaping and buffing job.  Though, I would like to get closer to expert
> professionnal result.  At the end, the ivories look quite nice, but
> there are still some scratches visible (not tangible) in it.  Who could
> help me imporve my process ?  Here it is :
>
> I unglue the existing ivories with a damp cloth, an iron and a sharp
> knife.  Works fine, without damaging the wood.
> I put the ivories in boiling water with detergent, to get them rid of
> glue and other dirtynesses.  Works very good, as long as you control the
> timing.
> I rince them and dry them in an oven at medium low temperature, watching
> for the moment they start to curl, and then turn them around, and watch
> again until the moment they are flat again.  Great.
> I put them under an UV neon light and spray some 30% oxygenated water on
> them, now and then.  After one day and one night, they look white enough
> for me.
> I glue them back on the keys with cement and solid copper clamps
> (difficult : the ivories tend to move on the key when pressed in the
> clamps, even when and the ivories and the wood is carved).
> I shape the length and the curves with a 400 grit sandpaper glued to a
> straight piece of wood.  This works fine.
> I sand the ivory surface with 240 grit paper, to try and make a good
> level joint between the two pieces of ivory on the key.  This doesn't
> work well : you can still feel the joint even after huge sanding.  I
> stop sanding before I get the feeling that I am going too far, that is,
> removing too much stuff and gettind clearly destructive.  Yet you still
> feel the joint.  No good.  (Ideas ?)
> I sand down the grits until 800.  Here: ok but ivory surface seems to
> tend not to be perfectly plane, so not all the surface gets sanded.
> Again, should I sand that much that everything is plane ?
> I then use a cotton buffing wheel with finishing composition, at fairly
> high speed.  This gives some gloss, but there appear and remain
> scratches that you can hardly feel but clearly see when looking at the
> keys in front of daylight.
> I feel my results are good but inferior to dedicated professionnal
> ones.  Is there a chance that I could improve my skill on this ?
>
> Thanks for any idea.
>
> Stéphane Collin.
>
> _______________________________________________
> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
>     I've used Turtle Wax White Polishing Compound and Scratch Remover,
which works fine, in my opinion.  Just dab a little on the keys with a moist
cloth, then polish in a circular motion for about 10 seconds per key.  Wipe
the compound off with another moist rag, then buff on the wheel or with a
soft dry cloth.  Wool also works well, such as old wool socks.
    When I hold them up to the light, I don't see scratches.
    Sometimes it even makes the keys a little too glossy, which with sweaty
hands can become slick.  Sometimes pianists like a little more "tooth" to
the surface of the ivories, so they don't get slippery.  Often I'll just
clean dirty ivories with medium-fine or fine steel wool, then maybe do a
very light application of the polishing compound, or even none at all.  If
the surface is rougher, it of course gets dirty faster, but the player(s)
will just have to wash their hands before playing.
    --David Nereson, RPT