Dampp-Chaser recommendations

Farrell mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
Tue, 22 Jun 2004 11:37:01 -0400


No sweat Dave. We all read posts like the recent one on Petroff
non-removable keyslips on uprights and then ask well, how the heck can you
get the action out if the keyslip is permanent? I do it also.

Anyway, cost? Geez, not wanting to sound snippy or anything, but you can do
that as easily as I. Most likely even more easily because my wife pays the
bills and I would need to search endlessly to find our electric rate.

But in all honesty, it only runs about 80% of the time during the highest
humidity we encounter - not every day. I can't imagine it is a large cost
either way. IMHO, I would favor a bottom cover (with fewer rods) because I
think the additional environmental isolation would help maintain a more
constant temp./RH than just the rods. I guess what I'm trying to say is that
I would weight what I though was best for the piano over the cost.

Did I mention my really, really nice Boston GP-178 is for sale?

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Skolnik" <davidskolnik@optonline.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: Dampp-Chaser recommendations


> Terry
> On behalf of my brain, I'd like to apologize.  I don't know what it was
> thinking.  Not until I read "five little rods", did I realize that I, er,
> it was visualizing 190 watts coming from one single bar, or at least
> concentrated at one point.  And, earlier, with regard to my concerns about
> mildew, you indicated that you are only running the dehumidifier on your
> piano.  I'll try to be more careful.  One more thing...could you  work out
> the math on what the cost would be of running 190 watts for 80% of the day
> (19.20hrs) for X number of humid days of the year?  How would that compare
> to installing a cover?
>
> David Skolnik
>
>
>
> At 07:09 AM 6/22/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >If the room is at 75 degrees F and 75% RH you need to get the piano
> >environment to 92 degrees to get 45% RH - not a whole lot of heat. Your
> >concern is legitimate though because I believe there is some sort of
delay
> >for the H2 humidistat to click on and off. It's been a couple years since
I
> >ran my little temp/RH trials on my piano, but I don't recall it ever
> >reaching 100 degrees under the soundboard, and I do remember that will
less
> >wattage the unit never turned off during periods of high humidity. Even
with
> >five little rods under there, it's not as if it is like a blast furnace
> >going off. Maybe I have too much air movement. If I were to re-install a
> >system on my piano, I would thoroughly explore a bottom cover before
simply
> >adding wattage. Bottom covers were not available when I did my
installation.
> >
> >Why don't I put a bottom cover on it now? I will. That task is #2,573 on
my
> >To-Do list.
> >
> >Oh, and my piano is for sale (great piano)!
> >
> >Terry Farrell
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "V T" <pianovt@yahoo.com>
> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> >Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 2:23 AM
> >Subject: Dampp-Chaser recommendations
> >
> >
> > > Hi David,
> > >
> > > Yes, 190 Watts seems like quite a bit of power for
> > > this application; it seems that he has a somewhat
> > > severe environment around the piano.
> > >
> > > When the heater rods are hooked up to the humidistat,
> > > they will cycle on and off.  Having 190 Watts (instead
> > > of say 60) will make the air heat up more quickly.  As
> > > long as the humidistat manages to shut off, the
> > > "average" temperature will not differ by a huge
> > > amount when you compare the 190W and the 60W system.
> > >
> > > The problem with excessive power is that the
> > > soundboard could be shocked from cold to warm in a
> > > relatively short amount of time, and that the peak
> > > temperature before things stabilize can be much higher
> > > with the 190W system. My preference would be to change
> > > the temperature more gradually, and that would be
> > > better accomplished with less power.
> > >
> > > Basically, I would say that one wants the least amount
> > > of power that will shut off the humidistat when the
> > > humidity is at the top of its expected range.  This
> > > will prevent very sudden changes in temperature
> > > and excessive transient temperature peaks.
> > >
> > > Vladan
> > >
> > >
> > > Andrew-
> > >
> > > My original question regarding excess heat was in
> > > response to Terry
> > > Farrell"s comment:
> > >
> > > >I own a Boston GP-178, which is located in my home. I
> > > have about five rods
> > > >on it totaling about 190 Watts.
> > >
> > > I wondered if, at some point, the elevated temperature
> > > itself (even with
> > > sufficient humidity) can have some negative effect on
> > > the soundboard.  It
> > > seems there has to be SOME limit, yes? no?
> > >
> > > David Skolnik
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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