Repetition Lever Height

[Richard Brekne]

Just a quick footnote too Davids response, ... the strength of the 
repetition spring comes into play when looking for the slight dip in 
hammer height when manually tripping the jack tail. So make sure you 
have very even spring strength, with all that entails in terms of even 
hammer center friction, etc.

Actually, the best thing IMHO is to develope a good sense of that 0.2mm 
feel when brushing the finger over the top of the lever/jack window. It 
might take a bit of practice, but you can get the hang of it after a while.

Cheers
RicB

Dave Nereson wrote:

>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Gordon Holley" <gwholley@hi-techhousing.com>
>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 11:25 AM
>Subject: Repetition Lever Height
>
>
>List.  In regulating a grand with all new wippens, hammers and shanks, I'm
>having a problem with determining
>the correct dimension between the top of the jack and the top of the
>repetition lever, in setting the repetition lever height.
>
>On the back page of the March 2004 Journal, the Yamaha, Little Red
>Schoolhouse, Step 18 of regulation, says that there should be
>0.2 mm between the top of the jack and the top of the repetition lever.  And
>yes, I've read all of the other info provided, but I'm surely not
>that great at a tactile sensation with a finger to determine 0.2 mm.
>
>And I don't know how to measure the 0.2mm with a gauge in the lever window.
>I read some place that this thickness is about the same
>as a business card, but that doesn't help.
>
>Does anyone have a better, step-by-step procedure to follow to set the lever
>height?
>
>Many thanks in advance
>
>Gordon Holley
>Associate Member
>Chapter 467, Indiana
>Goshen, IN
>
>    Yes, initially set the edge of the repetition lever window so that it's
>just barely above the top of the jack.  With the tip of your finger, brush
>it across the top of the jack and repetition lever and adjust it so that you
>just barely feel the edge of the rep. lever above the tip of the jack.  (Put
>a piece of paper down on the desk, and feel the edge of the paper above the
>desk surface -- something like that).  To increase the "edge" or "lip" or
>"gap", turn the adjusting button counter-clockwise; to decrease it, turn
>clockwise.
>     That'll get you close.  Then, with all the hammers in rest position
>(sitting on the wippens), take your finger and flick the tail of the jack
>(under the let-off button) and let go.  The hammer should dip, or "wink",
>slightly and come back up.  The dip is usually about 1/16" or even less,
>sometimes more -- I'd say an eighth is on the big side.  If the hammer
>doesn't dip at all, turn the screw on the adjusting button clockwise until
>it does.  If it dips quite a bit and stays down, that's too far -- turn it
>counter-clockwise until it dips but comes back up.  Rather than trying to
>get an exact hammer dip amount, try to get them all consistent with each
>other.  It will vary with knuckle wear.  You can also lift neighboring
>hammers to observe the jack and see that it's getting all the way back under
>the knuckle, with the back edge of the jack in line with the back edge of
>the wood knuckle core.
>    --David Nereson, RPT
>
>
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