This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/related attachment ------=_NextPart_001_004B_01C467E8.FCA609B0 At the risk of sounding like I am of the opinion that there is only one = type of epoxy worthy of use on this planet, I offer the following for = your consideration. >From my experience, the source of failure with epoxies in general, when = they occur, is between the epoxy and the substrate being bonded - in a = repair like a rim, it would be the epoxy-to-wood joint that can be of = concern. An epoxy bond is a mechanical bond: the epoxy must penetrate = the wood sufficiently so that after it hardens it will not work loose. = You've all heard/seen/experienced an auto-body repair with "Bondo" that = separates from the metal after some time. This is because a proper = mechanical bond was not made between the Bondo (yes, I know, Bondo is a = polyurethane-based product - but the analogy works) and the metal = substrate. The same can happen with the epoxy-to-wood joint. A thick, putty-like epoxy, simply does not penetrate a wooden surface = well on its own.=20 Now in a low-stress joint like filling a divot in a piece of wood, the = thick epoxy might work just fine. But be sure to moosh the epoxy into = the wood a bit to be sure it will interlock with the surface fibers of = the wood. In a high-stress joint, an epoxy like West System with its various = fillers really shines. The basic principal here is to wet wood surfaces = down with an unthickened epoxy - you can watch as the epoxy soaks into = the wood - if it soaks in fast, you may want to apply unthickened epoxy = again - with end grain you will want many applications of unthickened = epoxy until it doesn't take any more. Then you add your filler of choice = and thicken it to whatever consistency is appropriate for the = application and make your bond. Doing this "preparatory wetting of the = surfaces" will yield an epoxy bond that quite simply will never let go. =20 =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Erwinspiano@aol.com=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 6:02 PM Subject: Re: Lock tite- wood epoxy In a message dated 7/11/2004 1:42:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, = lclgcnp@yahoo.com writes: I just used some of this stuff, mixed with aniline dye powder, to replace a bit of rim molding on a 1925 grand I am working on. Worked pretty well. Hard to see repair. I would, though, like to hear others' recommendations for such repairs. I am inclined to try the "Tootsie Roll"(TM) type epoxy putty, mixed with dye powder, next time. Thump Good idea. I've wanted to try it myself. Dale ------=_NextPart_001_004B_01C467E8.FCA609B0 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/d5/43/ca/49/attachment.htm ------=_NextPart_001_004B_01C467E8.FCA609B0-- ---------------------- multipart/related attachment A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 9459 bytes Desc: not available Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/92/90/b8/b2/attachment.png ---------------------- multipart/related attachment A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: application/octet-stream Size: 65 bytes Desc: not available Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/02/a4/b2/77/attachment.obj ---------------------- multipart/related attachment--
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