---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Hi Ron With so many things in our profession to cionsider I sometimes think we're trying to reinvent the wheel Or in the this case the piano. All though I hardly consider myself as having my head in the sand when it comes to improvements I sometimes want to SHOUT OVERKILL. There I feel better. I can't ever recall tuning any of the many Steiwnays in my clientele that had any thing remotely close to what I'd call a stability problem because of plate fit. Some others such as ,Yes, Yamaha , ocassionaly has a problem & who barely fit the flange to the block yet still one of the worlds most stable tuning pianos. > >. . . In response to Dale's comment, I do like to glass the block for, among >other things, the very reason mentioned in Jon's post. Sometimes you get >some drift on the block when the screws go in and what was a nice fit is >not quite as nice. Though a 100% fit to the flange may be more than is >necessary, it certainly doesn't hurt. >>> I agree it isn't necessary but to mind a preference. Agreed. I suspect a good fit all the way along can aid tuning stability. > The amount of time involved in this >final step is minimal compared with the problems that can arise from a >poorly fit block. As a safety measure, and for my own peace of mind, I >think it's well worth the minimal trouble. > > David,I know the type of cratfsmen you are would not expect your flange fit to ever be a problem to the point of really needing epoxy. Here here. We fit the plank with the plate inverted also. Once it is fitted to the flange reasonably well with the screw holes drilled and screws fitted, we drill a location hole for a metal dowel into each end of the pin block to plate web interface. An inverted tuning pin is driven into the pin block as the locating dowel. >> Ron I do this with the plate upside down as well & once the block is fit the plates flipped over & then firmly clamp the block to the flange in four places fore & aft & 3 spots vertically so it's nice and tihgt , then re tap the block one more time, make a final adjustment, then reclamp & drill several screw holes, fit the screws & tighten & then drill the rest leaving the clamps in place till quite a few more screws are in before I take off the clamps. I like the idea you have here of a locating pin as well. I've had no plate slippage with this system. Dale The plate flange is de-burred with an angle grinder to allow for an easy release of the epoxy paste, then the pin block is epoxy fitted with screws installed. We don't use wood screws for securing the pin block to the plate. Instead, we use 8 mm countersunk machine screws. Rock maple is such a good material for forming a fine thread, so we cut the threads into the pin block with a tap before fitting up the machine screws. The epoxy fit-up provides a very accurate job without costing too much in time. Ron O. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/32/7b/61/88/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC