I drill a hole through the rib, fill it with glue then use a SS rod ( or long drill bit ) as a plunger. This rams the glue between the rib and board very nicely, squeezing it into those tight places which would be hard to get at, otherwise. Thump --- Dean May <deanmay@pianorebuilders.com> wrote: > Hi Joe, > > Use the syringe but forget about the needle. It just > makes it require more > pressure to squeeze the glue out. Just use the > plastic nib the needle screws > onto; jam the nib into your drilled hole (seems like > 1/8 is about the right > size). The needles are good if you need to reach > somewhere. But for this > one, you got the hole right there in front of you, > no reaching required. > > I'm sure it would work on bridges if you can get the > hole in the right spot. > Works great on separated ribs and backposts, also. I > really like the > urethane glue for this application, 'cause as you > said, it fills all the > voids and is super sticky. > > Blessings, > > Dean > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org > [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf > Of Joe And Penny Goss > Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2004 10:32 PM > To: Pianotech > Subject: Re: Baldwin Hamilton loose side panel > > Hey Dean, > I like that idea a lot better than my way. 1/8" > drill and vet > 1/8" OD long needle and syringe. I have a dose > syringe that would let me > power the glue in. Come to think of it one might > even consider using liquid > hide glue. > Now looking for a piano to try it on <G> > Come to think of it this could work on loose bridges > from the back? > Joe Goss RPT > Mother Goose Tools > imatunr@srvinet.com > www.mothergoosetools.com > > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
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