Action Rail Hole Spacing

[gordon stelter]

Excuse me, please, but it seems that we'ere getting a
little fanatical here. What is wrong with making a
scale stick out of some stable stuff, like plexiglas,
marking the hole positions by placing it against the
current flange screw holes for the wippen, then
marking across your new wood with a  little
tri-square. Then just clamp a block across your drill
press table so that the drilled holes line up with the
centerline of your new wood and drill away?
What would be wrong with that?
     Thump


--- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Well, I'm sure there is nothing so terribly wrong
> with using the old one.
> Left unguided, that is indeed how I was doing it.
> 
> With such a method however, some accuracy is lost
> with each replacement
> (heaven forbid, what will this rail look like 800
> years from now?). I was
> also asking the question from a broader perspective
> as I have run across
> rails that were not set up well originally. This
> also may come up when
> converting a rail from brass rails to wooden
> flanges, or building a rail
> from scratch.
> 
> I'm sure there is some efficient techniques for
> drilling a series of holes
> at either equal spacing or a steadily variable
> spacing that helps to
> increase accuracy. I think Sarah Fox came up with
> the best approach for a
> general hole spacing when an adequate original is
> not available - the
> treaded rod (thanks Sarah - although in this case I
> think I will use the
> original as a guide - but when I make that new piano
> from scratch......)
> 
> I guess I was targeting the question to go beyond
> the immediate action rail.
> 
> Terry Farrell
> 
> > > Anyone have any great ideas for how to
> accurately space screw holes in
> an
> > action rail? I need to make a new let-off rail for
> an old M&H upright and
> > the only way I can figure to do it is to use the
> old one as a guide and
> mark
> > the new wooden rail. Is there a better way to
> space?
> > >
> > > Terry Farrell
> >
> >     Whassamatta with using the old one?  Just put
> 'em side by side and use
> a
> > little machinist's or hobbyist's square, or make a
> little jig and just go
> > down the line and mark 'em all.  By the time you
> could make a scale stick
> or
> > come up with some formula, you'd be done.
> 
> > --David Nereson, RPT
> 
> 
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