---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment To Jason and list, It is like Richard Brekne said : "In a reasonably pressed hammer, the appropriate amount of shoulder=20 needling releases some of the inner tension directionally towards the=20 top (crown) of the hammer adding to its resiliancy and power". I think to have a clear image we must try to follow the felting=20 procedure : A big slab of stone hard felt is pressed around a rather thin wooden=20 molding. Enormous pressure is needed to fold the felt around it. If you don't glue the felt and release it from the caul, it will=20 immediately jump back to its former flat position. If you glue the felt and cut the hammer sideways in the crown, the felt=20= will jump open in two halves which both will point to a side of the=20 hammer. It means that the tension build up is not sideways but towards both=20 crown and basis of the hammer. We must also keep in mind that hammer felt consists of many layers=20 lying on top of each other. The fibers of these layers interconnect (the fulling process) but=20 nevertheless, they remain layers. The Wurzen factory used to have a trademark in the form of a thin layer=20= of darker wool. A hammer, felted with this wool will show a very thin=20 stripe going up and down around the molding. It clearly shows just one=20= layer. Sticking a needle in from the side (as described by Mr Ari Isaac) will=20= puncture just a fraction of the layered hammer and if you stick it all=20= the way through you damage one layer for ever. Sticking your needles in not from the side but into the front and back=20= of the hammer will puncture many layers at the same time but not damage=20= them completely as you do from the side. This old and much used method, the voicing method with needles, is also=20= at its most economic when we use three needles at the same time and=20 make a zig zag movement like a sewing machine, thereby using the=20 available small needling space in a safer and more economical way. Banging your needles in with reasonable speed and force will have a=20 long lasting effect and that's how it should be. And indeed, needling from the side requires you to actually take out=20 each hammer and put it on a bench because you will otherwise easily=20 damage the shank or the center pin. It is not my method in any case and there is also no factory on Earth=20 using the sideway needling technique. Andr=E9 Oorebeek On 20-apr-04, at 14:15, Corte Swearingen wrote: > Jason, > > I tried this technique on my own Yamaha U1 and, I have to say, I = didn't > notice much difference. Maybe I should have been using a slightly=20 > thicker > needle. The downside to this technique is that you really have to be > careful so as to not exert to much pressure sideways on the=20 > hammer/shank > assembly. It's not as easy as it sounds. > > Corte Swearingen > Chicago > > > > "jason kanter" > <jkanter@rollingb To: "Pianotech"=20= > <pianotech@ptg.org> > all.com> cc: > Sent by: Subject: abel needling=20= > technique > pianotech-bounces > @ptg.org > > > 04/19/2004 11:39 > PM > Please respond to > Pianotech > > > > > > > Last year I came across a Web article describing Abel's method of=20 > needling > hammers. Can someone describe the technique? I can't find it. It=20 > involves > needling into, or through, the hammer from the side instead of in from=20= > the > shoulders and crown. What do you folks think about this method? > > Jason > > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > friendly greetings from Andr=E9 Oorebeek Amsterdam - The Netherlands 0031-20-6237357 0645-492389 0031-75-6226878 www.concertpianoservice.nl www.grandpiano.nl "where music is, no harm can be" ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 4526 bytes Desc: not available Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/90/5f/c9/13/attachment.bin ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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