tapered pinblocks

[David Love]

Terry, Dale et al:

Thanks for the input.  This particular block was a bit of a challenge.  It
measured 38 mm (1.5") thick on the flange side through most of the center
of the block and tapered to 35 mm at the treble end and 35 mm at the bass
end.  The stretcher side was about a mm or 2 thinner than the flange side
throughout.  Laying the old block on a flat surface it was clear that the
material had been removed from the top of the block.  I ended up measuring
and marking the thickness about every 8 - 9 inches along the length of the
original block on both sides (flange and stretcher).  I used a 1.5" panel
and once I cut out the block and roughed the flange side to the proper
shape, I took a power hand planer and reduced the thickness down using the
markings on the original block as a guide.  Took a belt sander to smooth
out the top and then did the final fitting at the piano (not much
required).  Took an extra 2 hours or so to get the thickness roughed. 
Maybe there's an easier way but I couldn't think of it.  New caps (or a new
board) would have been better but it wasn't to be for this particular job.  

David Love
davidlovepianos@earthlink.net


> [Original Message]
> From: Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Date: 4/2/2004 9:46:03 AM
> Subject: Re: tapered pinblocks
>
> Clearly, simply shimming the bass end would be the easiest and fastest.
But
> that would leave "that thing" about the bottom of the pinblock not being
> even with the stretcher. I guess that is kinda like having all your
beckets
> lined up - doesn't really make much difference, but gosh, I wouldn't want
> anyone to see work like that from me!
>
> If you were going to use a power planer, you would have to make tapered
> shims to get the thickness taper going through the planer. Not too
difficult
> to do I guess. Your Crapsman must be small? My DeWald 12-1/2-inch planer
> will do it just fine - although I did write to the list recently that
> planing a pinblock is definitely pushing it to its limit. Can you even fit
> the width of the pinblock through the planer?
>
> IMHO, just use a good hand plane and plane the rascal. You are only
talking
> about planing off 1/8" at the bass (the narrow end), 1/16" in the middle
and
> nothing at the treble (the widest end). Even if you do not have the
greatest
> touch with the hand plane, the pinblock bottom is not a glue surface, so
> even if the job is less than perfect, it will be just fine. Periodically
> place the pinblock into the piano to monitor getting it flush with the
> stretcher. I would use a jack plane to get the bulk off, a jointer plane
to
> get things nice and planar, and a smoother to finish the job (and if you
> don't have those, just use any decent good sized plane with a sharp
blade).
> I'll bet I could have it planed by hand before you had your electric
planer
> shims cut.
>
> Terry Farrell
>