---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment -------------------------------1081006664 In a message dated 4/2/2004 9:10:33 AM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspiano writes: HI David A different version of the remedy that Terry suggested is to fit the block completely however you want it first & then with the block dry fit in the case mark the treble end glue joint with a pencil line from underneath the block. Remove the block. I then use a porter cable laminate trimmer to reduce only the thickness of the block at the glue joint or bottom side. Is that clear? This lowers it to the overall height you want but the block now hangs lower than the stretcher. Now to solve this I start with a hand power planer to hog of the most of the material then finish up with whatever hand planes you have/wish a Terry suggested. Your basically freehanding a tapered cut. One caveat though is that often with the block screwed to the plate in the dry fit mode you'll notice that there may be a small tapered gap at between the treble pinblock end & the shelf with the block screwed to the plate. Or usually the front edge is touching but there is a space towards the back. You may have to cut a fine tapered shim or maple veneers on the tablesaw to fill in the glue joint. As you probably know STWY has an extravagant set up to fit the top of the block to the plate flange which us lowly underlings can't afford. Dale I'm curious what others might do in this situation. Steinway pianos frequently taper the thickness of their pinblocks at the treble end. One I am replacing now (without replacing the soundboard or bridgecaps--not my job, so not my choice) is tapered from 1 1/2" in the bass down to 1 3/8" in the treble. The choices are to use a 1 1/2" block and remove material in a gradual taper, or to use a 1 3/8" block and shim the bass end higher which will then not have the block flush with the bottom of the stretcher on the bass end. The best solution short of replacing the board would probably be to replace the bridge caps. Unfortunately, it is not an option on this job. Should I choose to taper the block, who can suggest a good power planer that will do the job quickly and efficiently. My little Craftsman can't handle it. Any other suggestion or ideas are appreciated. David Love davidlovepianos@earthlink.net -------------------------------1081006664 An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/96/22/8f/ab/attachment.htm -------------------------------1081006664-- ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment An embedded message was scrubbed... From: Erwinspiano@aol.com Subject: Re: tapered pinblocks Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 12:10:33 EST Size: 6063 Url: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/ae/69/7d/1f/attachment.eml ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment--
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