tapered pinblocks

[Farrell]

Clearly, simply shimming the bass end would be the easiest and fastest. But
that would leave "that thing" about the bottom of the pinblock not being
even with the stretcher. I guess that is kinda like having all your beckets
lined up - doesn't really make much difference, but gosh, I wouldn't want
anyone to see work like that from me!

If you were going to use a power planer, you would have to make tapered
shims to get the thickness taper going through the planer. Not too difficult
to do I guess. Your Crapsman must be small? My DeWald 12-1/2-inch planer
will do it just fine - although I did write to the list recently that
planing a pinblock is definitely pushing it to its limit. Can you even fit
the width of the pinblock through the planer?

IMHO, just use a good hand plane and plane the rascal. You are only talking
about planing off 1/8" at the bass (the narrow end), 1/16" in the middle and
nothing at the treble (the widest end). Even if you do not have the greatest
touch with the hand plane, the pinblock bottom is not a glue surface, so
even if the job is less than perfect, it will be just fine. Periodically
place the pinblock into the piano to monitor getting it flush with the
stretcher. I would use a jack plane to get the bulk off, a jointer plane to
get things nice and planar, and a smoother to finish the job (and if you
don't have those, just use any decent good sized plane with a sharp blade).
I'll bet I could have it planed by hand before you had your electric planer
shims cut.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 11:04 AM
Subject: tapered pinblocks


> I'm curious what others might do in this situation.  Steinway pianos
> frequently taper the thickness of their pinblocks at the treble end.  One
I
> am replacing now (without replacing the soundboard or bridgecaps--not my
> job, so not my choice) is tapered from 1 1/2" in the bass down to 1 3/8"
in
> the treble.  The choices are to use a 1 1/2" block and remove material in
a
> gradual taper, or to use a 1 3/8" block and shim the bass end higher which
> will then not have the block flush with the bottom of the stretcher on the
> bass end.
>
> The best solution short of replacing the board would probably be to
replace
> the bridge caps.  Unfortunately, it is not an option on this job.
>
> Should I choose to taper the block, who can suggest a good power planer
> that will do the job quickly and efficiently.  My little Craftsman can't
> handle it.
>
> Any other suggestion or ideas are appreciated.
>
>
> David Love
> davidlovepianos@earthlink.net
>
>
>
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