---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment In a message dated 9/21/2003 9:34:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, RNossaman@cox.net writes: >Hello Dale. I'm looking for a few more details describing your (or >anyone's) center-pin-anti-skid methods. I use upholstery tacks. Like thumb tacks except they're longer. Clipped to about 9-10mm length, they go through the feathered rib ends and about 5mm into the panel. If everything is squared up and centered, the middle of the long ribs doesn't skate enough to be a problem. If it does, that few grains of fine sand John mentioned will help. Skating with Titebond, on Spruce anyway, means you probably have too much glue. Pressurize the clamp slowly, and it's not hard to keep under control - usually. The ribs are already feathered, and I let the fire hose conform to their contours with no additional spacers for clamping. Ron N Ron now that you mention it I haven't encountered any skid with the tight bond only the cold hide. I'll try the next one with out the no. 6 bridge pins and tight bond. Great one less step to do! I find that I need the cut off pieces on the feathered ends for more uniform pressure. Partly because my deck is crowned steeper (45 to 50ft.) than my 60ft. radius top cauls.Which means the top cauls need to set in such a way so as to conform to the needs of the middle of the rib as well as the ends. This requires a bit more futzing but I'm not inclined to change it at this point. The deck I made used to belong in a go-bar setup then I bought the top pneumatic cauls from another tech estate. wala custom convolution of pressing devices. Ain't life great! ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/94/11/dc/da/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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