Wicking glue... Still in the dark.

[Jon Page]

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 >Although I understand the reason, for insuring that the ivory is securely
 >re-glued before attempting repairs to a hairline crack, I still don't
 >understand the actual procedure for re-gluing a partially loosened ivory.
 >I'm assuming that "Wicking" means, somehow, "drawing" glue back underneath
 >the partially glued ivory without actually having to completely remove
 >the ivory itself (?)If so, what's your method for "Wicking/drawing"
 >glue back underneath a partially glued ivory?

I locate a loose front by tapping with a fingernail. Sometimes it's only one
corner on the head or the front or back edge of the tail. Closer scrutiny is
done by applying light pressure and seeing if there is any give to the joint
at the overhang.

Thin the glue to water consistency. I use a pallet knife to apply a bead of 
glue
under the overhang. Lightly lifting on the loose edge will allow the glue 
to wick
into the cavity. Coaxing with the blade speeds up the process. Clamp with a 
heated
caul, either metal or wooden.

I have used plain water and a heated caul to reactivate the glue once on a 
set but
it left a shadow under the key where the water had wicked in. That is why I mix
titanium oxide (showhite) with the glue. 1:5 while dry, then add the water.

This week I'll be reattaching  the majority of loose heads on a keyboard. I'm
useing Stephen Birkett's suggestion of heating the ivory and clamping with a
wooden slat. I've done a few singles this way already and it works well.
         I cut the slats slightly narrower than the heads so that I can clamp
lateral stabilizers to the sides. I hate it when the ivories start skating 
around.
These will not be flat pallets but rather concave, '--------------'; having 
only
the front and back edges positioning the ivory will allow for glue 
squeeze-out in
the center. I have yet to fabricate these. I won't need a whole set, 
because the glue
should be set up enough to remove the initial ones as I progress along the 
keyboard.


Regards,

Jon Page, piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
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