In case the epoxy fails. A proper epoxy bond to wood will have thin epoxy soaking into the clean wood surface (preferably roughened) and then a thicker mixture with a high-strenght adhesive filler mixed in to fill any gap left. I can't inspect the wood surfaces down in the crack. There may be a large area of wood surface that has a layer of hide glue or one of the more modern glues covering it that could hinder a good epoxy bond. The bolts serve as insurance. That's the technical explanation of my madness. The practical explanation is that I don't know what the heck is going on down in that crack. The original glue/wood and screws obviously were not enough to hold it together (it should have been), so I just hit it will all the ammo I got. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Nossaman" <RNossaman@cox.net> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 10:20 AM Subject: Re: Pinblock Separation Questions > > > But > >Ron, with your method what is the point of putting in any glue? Since you are > >tuning in the same visit, likely before the glue has set up, you are > >putting your > >faith totally on the bolts. And maybe that's okay. > > Mechanically, there isn't much point to putting in the glue. Whether you > use Titebond or epoxy, the bolts are doing the work. Why do you put in > bolts when you use epoxy? > > Ron N > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC