This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment I might be that tech. It's a Baldwin, I think about 30 years old. It's = been a work horse at this small music store up here in the foothills. = She gives me referrals.=20 The whips being so light, they don't overcome the friction and push the = key down to the backrail cloth. I was thinking of a lead bead. The = action seem to be leveraged well enough to handle it. Other than needing = some adjustment, it's not doing too badly.=20 Rubber cement might make it a little less of a hassle to work on than = titebond. Maybe if I coated the wire with a mold release first, a little = rubber bead might work. Keith Roberts ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Joe And Penny Goss=20 Keith, a little dab of Tightbond applyed to the tape at the hole. If = it is a drop action, put the glue on the end of a long screw driver ( I = know Joe not the propper way to treat a screw driver ) <G> and apply. It = will not take much and makes it funner for the tech who has to replace = the straps at a later date, if the piano lasts so long. Joe Goss imatunr@srvinet.com www.mothergoosetools.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Keith Roberts=20 To: Pianotech=20 Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 12:35 PM Subject: bridle wire design Not the normal twist. The end of the tape just pushes over the wire = and the bend in the wire keeps the tape from sliding down the wire. The = bend doesn't hold the tape captive.=20 I'm sure you all see what this is leading to. The hole in the end of = the tape has become enlarged and the wire, which is acting like a = mechanical bull, throws the tape off. The problem is that occasionally = the end of the tape interferes with the action. Any simple solutions? Keith Roberts=20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/91/72/fe/67/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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