soundboardinstal again

[Farrell]

> It has been. Or, I can determine the bridge height at C-8 by measurement 
> determined by string height, make the bridge in it's entirety from that and 
> my pattern, and put the thing in. I've also made bridges from just the 
> original bridge  height, my pattern, and the crown under load estimates 
> produced by my spreadsheet with no problem. I don't want to do the 
> "traditional" bearing setting method of gouging the bridge cap and planing 
> it down. I want to put a laminated cap of pre-determined thickness on a 
> bridge of pre-determined thickness and put it in the piano a minimum number 
> of times. I'm a long way from being efficient, but I'd rather do a little 
> more planning and a little less physical labor if I possibly can.

I kinda-sorta did the same thing on my recent job and was real happy with the outcome. I made the bridge root thicker than needed (keep in mind this was my first bridge! - lots of idiot-proofing procedures built into the approach - although not enough!) and made the laminated (5-ply) bridge cap separately. I measured the bridge cap thickness (if I recall correctly, it was about 10 or 11 mm). Then I made up a nice little block of wood the same thickness of the bridge cap. I simply planed the bridge root down to the thickness where the root plus the wooden cap block produced the desired downbearing in that section. Once all that was set, I epoxy (the epoxy man striketh) cap (laminated with epoxy, of course)on and preserve the integrity of the laminated cap. Very, very happy with this process. I don't have the action done on this piano yet (have to rebuild action and keys, etc. yet), but by plucking, there appears to not be one single false beat. Gosh, I hope I am not speaking to early on this!!!

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Nossaman" <RNossaman@cox.net>
To: <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>; "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: soundboardinstal again


> 
> >So then, is your procedure is to temporarily screw the bridge to the board,
> >lay the board in the piano, put in the plate, clamp it down in a few places
> >and set the bearing, then remove everything and notch and pin the bridge
> >clamped to a 1x10?
> 
> It has been. Or, I can determine the bridge height at C-8 by measurement 
> determined by string height, make the bridge in it's entirety from that and 
> my pattern, and put the thing in. I've also made bridges from just the 
> original bridge  height, my pattern, and the crown under load estimates 
> produced by my spreadsheet with no problem. I don't want to do the 
> "traditional" bearing setting method of gouging the bridge cap and planing 
> it down. I want to put a laminated cap of pre-determined thickness on a 
> bridge of pre-determined thickness and put it in the piano a minimum number 
> of times. I'm a long way from being efficient, but I'd rather do a little 
> more planning and a little less physical labor if I possibly can.
> 
> 
> >If so, how do you support the plate over the board at
> >the correct height, as well as hold it down around the perimeter so that
> >you can wedge it down to set bearing?
> 
> Sitting on one nose bolt and the pinblock, normally. If it's badly warped, 
> I might clamp it down to level with blocks and clamps over the rim. It 
> depends on what I've got to work with. I'm probably going to hang the plate 
> on adjustable perimeter bolts anyway, and hopefully with vertical hitches, 
> so there is some tolerance here.
> 
> Ron N
> 
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