Where do you get your adjustable perimeter bolts? David Love davidlovepianos@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@cox.net> > To: <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>; Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > Date: 7/21/2003 7:38:04 AM > Subject: Re: soundboardinstal again > > > >So then, is your procedure is to temporarily screw the bridge to the board, > >lay the board in the piano, put in the plate, clamp it down in a few places > >and set the bearing, then remove everything and notch and pin the bridge > >clamped to a 1x10? > > It has been. Or, I can determine the bridge height at C-8 by measurement > determined by string height, make the bridge in it's entirety from that and > my pattern, and put the thing in. I've also made bridges from just the > original bridge height, my pattern, and the crown under load estimates > produced by my spreadsheet with no problem. I don't want to do the > "traditional" bearing setting method of gouging the bridge cap and planing > it down. I want to put a laminated cap of pre-determined thickness on a > bridge of pre-determined thickness and put it in the piano a minimum number > of times. I'm a long way from being efficient, but I'd rather do a little > more planning and a little less physical labor if I possibly can. > > > >If so, how do you support the plate over the board at > >the correct height, as well as hold it down around the perimeter so that > >you can wedge it down to set bearing? > > Sitting on one nose bolt and the pinblock, normally. If it's badly warped, > I might clamp it down to level with blocks and clamps over the rim. It > depends on what I've got to work with. I'm probably going to hang the plate > on adjustable perimeter bolts anyway, and hopefully with vertical hitches, > so there is some tolerance here. > > Ron N
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