615 255 7818 Joe Goss imatunr@srvinet.com www.mothergoosetools.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Strang" <rstrang@pa.inter.net> To: "'Pianotech'" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 7:01 PM Subject: RE: Baldwin Bass Strings > Got a telephone no. or email for Arledge? > > Richard > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On > Behalf Of Brent Musgrave > Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 7:12 PM > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: RE: Baldwin Bass Strings > > > List, > > A good friend of mine who is a retired university technician just restrung > a Baldwin-M recently. He did not have to send samples for duplication. He > used Arledge bass strings and had very high praise! I did not personally > hear the piano but Dean said it sounded very nice. > > Regards, > Brent Musgrave > > pianotech-request@ptg.org wrote: > > >Send pianotech mailing list submissions to > > pianotech@ptg.org > > > > > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > pianotech-request@ptg.org > > > > > >You can reach the person managing the list at > > pianotech-owner@ptg.org > > > > > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > >than "Re: Contents of pianotech digest..." > > > >Subject: RE: Baldwin > >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:33:29 -0400 > >From: "Tom Driscoll" <tomtuner@comcast.net> > >To: "'Pianotech'" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > > Subject: RE: Baldwin > > > >Can you recommend an exacting string maker? I'd sure like this piano to > >sound as good as it can. It sits in the living room of the U.S. > >ambassador > >to Panama. > > > > > > > > > >Richard, > > I can recommend Sanderson in Littleton Mass. > > Tom Driscoll > > > > > >Subject: Re: list-now Humor OT > >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 22:49:57 -0700 > >From: Robin Hufford <hufford1@airmail.net> > >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >Tom, > > Obviously you are a veteran of the list. Very funny, original and > >amusing. > >Regards, Robin Hufford > > > >Tom Driscoll wrote: > > > >> Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain) > >> Encoding: 7bit > > > > > >Subject: Re: More cut-off bar questions > >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:24:43 -0700 > >From: Robin Hufford <hufford1@airmail.net> > >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >Hello Ron, > > Nearly all of the cut-off bars I have seen on uprights have been > >what > >you describe - the Clayton variety. Similarly the case with grands, > >although occasionally one sees a cut-off bar attached to the beams, I > >think, as you describe. > > Along this line I have recently looked at the cut-off bars on the > >Wissner upright which I posted to on this thread six or eight weeks ago, > >and Wissner does indeed use these features. There is a large section in > >the upper left corner in which a diagonally placed bar, approximately > >three inches wide and one and a quarter inches thick cuts off a large > >area of the sound board extending about 16 inches along a diagonal line > >drawn from this corner to the opposite one. The ribs are let into this > >cut-off bar, and terminate in it. The bar, which is normal to the > >diagonal and thus defines a fairly large area of the board in this > >corner, appears to be a solid piece. On the opposite corner a smaller > >section is cut-off not by a bar but by a gusset shaped piece that > >appears > >to be about one and a half inches thick, extending from the vertex along > >the bottom of the board for about eight inches and up the side of the > >board for approximately 25 or so, and then connected from the two ends. > > The sound of this piano, while not of the timbre per se that my ear > >favors best, must be heard to be > >comprehended both as regards power, ringtime and attributes which one > >might consider as "grand like". And this in its present, unrebuilt > >condition. > > Another interesting feature of the piano is the plate which > >contains > >a flange fitted pinblock that is blocked up off the back. Spacers > >occupy > >a space analagous to the action cavity on a grand but only and inch or > >so deep, > >and carry the screws into the back from the front of the block. Another > >is a Capo > >d'Astro that extends across the entire length of the piano. > > I intend to take some pictures of a Sohmer grand with the agraffed > >bridge later this month as per your request of some time ago and get > >them > >to you. > > In my opinion there is no better termination system devised than > >this system for pianos, which I believe also has been used by several > >European > >manufacturers in the past. Others will no doubt disagree but, to me, > >this is immediately made apparent by the far superior ringtime and power > >of these kinds of systems. The conventional pinned bridge is, as far > >as > >I can see, a masterpiece of compromise whose fundamental aim is > >cost-efficiency first and foremost, termination efficiency second, and, > >perhaps, tradition third. And it is a very poor second at that as > >regards > >the termination function. > > Steinway's traditional term for this bar, in the past, has been > >"Closing rim" and this often cut-off a space where the board was > >entirely absent and was used on numerous pianos. > >Regards, Robin Hufford > > > >Overs Pianos wrote: > > > >> >What is a Clayton's cut-off? > >> > > >> > Calin Tantareanu > >> > >> Around thirty years ago, when I was finishing school, Claytons Tonic > >> was the non-alcoholic drink folks would take if they weren't into the > >> real stuff. > >> > >> Similarly, the 'Claytons cut-off' is the one which isn't attached to > >> the back beams. Should one be completely overcome by the urge to use > >> an unattached cut-off, you might as well save the wood unless the > >> sales folks are short of speel. > >> > >> I don't know if the tonic is still made, but there's certainly no > >> shortage of Claytons cut-offs to be had. > >> > >> Ron O. > >> -- > >> > >> OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY > >> Grand Piano Manufacturers > >> _______________________ > >> > >> Web http://overspianos.com.au > >> mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au > >> _______________________ > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > >Subject: RE: Baldwin > >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:49:58 -0500 > >From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@cox.net> > >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > > > >>Can you recommend an exacting string maker? I'd sure like this piano to > >>sound as good as it can. It sits in the living room of the U.S. ambassador > >>to Panama. > > > >Mapes is quite capable of making a good set of strings, as is Arledge or > >Sanderson. The question is making them to what specifications? That's the > >rescaling Terry was talking about. > > > >And, incidentally, why is it more important that the piano sound good for > >the U.S ambassador to Panama than if it was for the widow Iris Flowers from > >Grand Junction, who would be spending the same money for similar > >expectations? I've always wondered about this sort of distinction. > > > >Ron N > > > > > >Subject: Conversions > >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:43:27 -0700 > >From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> > >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >Ron said: "Wow! Break out your bookmarker and chisel this one near the top > >of the list."!!! > >Damned thing almost gave my 'puter a hernia!<G> Must be those metric freaks > >again!<G> > >Thanks Ron. Don't know what to do with it, but, thanks anyway!<G> > >Best Regards, > >Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) > > > >Been There, Didn't Like It, So I'm Here To Stay! [G} > > > > > >Subject: Re: Baldwin/Richard Stang > >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:47:57 -0700 > >From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> > >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >"I don't > >know whether I should have Mapes or Schaff make the strings. I think Schaff > >is cheaper, but maybe not so much so. What do you all think?" > >Hmmm? Last I heard Mapes and Schaff are one and the same. If you want good > >strings, get them from someone else, like Walter Schenke, Canada, J.D. > >Grandt Piano Supply Co.!!!! > >Just my slant on it.<G> > >Best Regards, > >Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) > > > >Been There, Didn't Like It, So I'm Here To Stay! [G} > > > > > >Subject: RE: looking to replace my upright... > >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:50:38 -0800 > >From: "Stephen Airy" <stephenairy@fastmail.fm> > >To: "Piano Tech list - PTG" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >I did a little bit of thinking the last couple days on this subject. I'm > >thinking that maybe I should use my current upright to learn how to hang > >hammers and regulate an action (and maybe also replace whippens, hammer > >butts, or a few other things, but I haven't decided yet). So... I'm > >temporarily taking myself off the market for a piano, at least for the > >time being. However, I am thinking about waiting a while, and saving up > >some money. > > > >I suppose I could plod along with my current piano, but when I am ready > >to upgrade, does anyone have any suggestions on what to get? I'm > >thinking I would be open to either an upright or a grand, although if I > >got a grand it would have to wait a while before I get one, as I am > >living with my parents at this time and they don't have room for another > >grand. Also, what would be a good price range to look at? I don't need > >any fancy "furniture", but I do want a good responsive action, that > >allows for fairly fast playing, and good dynamic control, and a good, > >full, rich, brilliant tone, abundant in higher harmonics, all the way > >from A0 to C8, especially on FF passages, but not harsh. If I go for a > >grand, I'm thinking at least 6 to 7 foot, but I don't want to spend a lot > >of dinero on a piano, so for me, a new piano from a dealer is out of the > >question, unless I wait a really long time and have >$50,000 to spend on > >a piano. What do you think I should be able to get for, say, $2,500? > >$5,000? $10,000? $20,000? any other price tiers you might suggest > >looking at? Like I said above, I've been thinking that I should probably > >learn some more technical things on my current piano, then after a couple > >years or so, start looking at getting another one. Ultimately, I'd like > >to get a Bosendorfer Imperial, but I would have to save for a > >LLLLOOOOONNNNNGGGGG tttiiimmmeee... and I wouldn't want to stick with my > >current piano for all that time. I would want to have at least one or > >two steps between an old klunker upright and a halfway decent 8-octave > >9'6" grand. :) Depending on available space and the price, I would be > >willing to get an older rebuilt 9 foot piano, even if it was not a > >Steinway. I played a Knabe 9' grand recently that someone had advertised > >for $8,000, but I don't have the money for that right now, but if I did > >have the money and the space, I'd consider buying it. Unfortunately, > >it's a limited time deal (private seller though) so when I AM able to buy > >something that size for that price, it probably won't be available. :( > >-- > > Stephen Airy > > stephenairy@fastmail.fm > > > >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:50:26 +1000 > >From: "Scott Jackson" <ScottWayneJackson@hotmail.com> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >No matter how 'gently' i try, i have never been able to put a cut centre > pin back in a bushing without knocking out the cloth! I would not recommend > trying this to anyone (unless they really want practise at re-bushing > flanges!). > > > >Scott Jackson > >Australia > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 10:07 AM > >Subject: RE: Flange Center Friction Increase > > > > > > > >| Terry > >| Isaac Sadisgursky talked about this in his class on center pins at the > >| Convention. He demonstrated how a center pin can be too tight in the > >| bushing cloth and loose through the wood, just the opposite of what it > >| should be. This problem can be spotted as you describe--fewer swings as > you > >| go along. Here's his test: carefully remove the center pin from an > >| offending flange. Gently place it back in the bushed flange and check the > >| friction just by pushing the pin with your fingernail. Now place the same > >| pin in the wood and push it with your fingernail. Chances are you can > push > >| it right through the wood. The problem is caused by using the assembly > wire > >| used in the flange to size the bushing cloth during manufacturing. When > the > >| flange is installed, the worker slides the wire back to clear the other > >| member then slides it through and cuts it to length, fitting done. Isaac > >| says to watch for centers that are clipped on both sides of the flange. > >| This will tell you a wire had been used. He then went on to demonstrate > how > >| to repin a set of flanges in about 45 minutes. > >| Paul C > > > >Subject: Re: looking to replace my upright... > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:36:32 +1000 > >From: "Scott Jackson" <ScottWayneJackson@hotmail.com> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >Yes! Please sell one to Stephen ............. > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 2:03 AM > >Subject: RE: looking to replace my upright... > > > >| I still have couple of big, partially restored Knabes > >| from the 1890's I'd sell "reasonable". I really don't > >| think you can get a bigger sound in an upright than > >| from these! > >| Thump > > > >Subject: Re: looking to replace my upright... > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 08:15:33 -0400 > >From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >".....living with my parents at this time and they don't have room for > another grand." > > > >So, there is a grand piano in your home? > > > >And does it have "a good responsive action, that allows for fairly fast > playing, and good dynamic control, and a good, full, rich, brilliant tone, > abundant in higher harmonics, all the way from A0 to C8, especially on FF > passages, but not harsh"? > > > >If so, why not play that piano - even if it is not a "9 foot piano", and > "even if it was not a Steinway"? > > > >Terry Farrell > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Stephen Airy" <stephenairy@fastmail.fm> > >To: "Piano Tech list - PTG" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 3:50 AM > >Subject: RE: looking to replace my upright... > > > > > > > >> I did a little bit of thinking the last couple days on this subject. I'm > >> thinking that maybe I should use my current upright to learn how to hang > >> hammers and regulate an action (and maybe also replace whippens, hammer > >> butts, or a few other things, but I haven't decided yet). So... I'm > >> temporarily taking myself off the market for a piano, at least for the > >> time being. However, I am thinking about waiting a while, and saving up > >> some money. > >> > >> I suppose I could plod along with my current piano, but when I am ready > >> to upgrade, does anyone have any suggestions on what to get? I'm > >> thinking I would be open to either an upright or a grand, although if I > >> got a grand it would have to wait a while before I get one, as I am > >> living with my parents at this time and they don't have room for another > >> grand. Also, what would be a good price range to look at? I don't need > >> any fancy "furniture", but I do want a good responsive action, that > >> allows for fairly fast playing, and good dynamic control, and a good, > >> full, rich, brilliant tone, abundant in higher harmonics, all the way > >> from A0 to C8, especially on FF passages, but not harsh. If I go for a > >> grand, I'm thinking at least 6 to 7 foot, but I don't want to spend a lot > >> of dinero on a piano, so for me, a new piano from a dealer is out of the > >> question, unless I wait a really long time and have >$50,000 to spend on > >> a piano. What do you think I should be able to get for, say, $2,500? > >> $5,000? $10,000? $20,000? any other price tiers you might suggest > >> looking at? Like I said above, I've been thinking that I should probably > >> learn some more technical things on my current piano, then after a couple > >> years or so, start looking at getting another one. Ultimately, I'd like > >> to get a Bosendorfer Imperial, but I would have to save for a > >> LLLLOOOOONNNNNGGGGG tttiiimmmeee... and I wouldn't want to stick with my > >> current piano for all that time. I would want to have at least one or > >> two steps between an old klunker upright and a halfway decent 8-octave > >> 9'6" grand. :) Depending on available space and the price, I would be > >> willing to get an older rebuilt 9 foot piano, even if it was not a > >> Steinway. I played a Knabe 9' grand recently that someone had advertised > >> for $8,000, but I don't have the money for that right now, but if I did > >> have the money and the space, I'd consider buying it. Unfortunately, > >> it's a limited time deal (private seller though) so when I AM able to buy > >> something that size for that price, it probably won't be available. :( > >> -- > >> Stephen Airy > >> stephenairy@fastmail.fm > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > >Subject: Re: Disklavier Question > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 09:34:39 -0400 > >From: "Dave Smith" <dsmith941@comcast.net> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >Good work Terry. Looking back, I can see that Kevin's advice was the > >simplest and the best. I looked at my notes and found that the symptom of > >the silent rail being turned as I had suggested is NOT a piano what won't > >play. It is an action that won't go back in the piano. I guess you can > >call that a piano what won't play also. :) > > > >Now that you can work on Disklavier's (as well as build your own > >soundboards) you are probably ready for the hard questions. Like, 'what is > >the meaning of life?" > > > >Dave Smith > >SW FL > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 8:51 PM > >Subject: Re: Disklavier Question > > > > > > > >> Thanks for all the input. The Quiet-Time feature was an add-on unit. It > >was turned on. I pressed the on/off button, and thus turned off the > >Quiet-Time unit, and became a hero. Thanks all. It was rough, but I was > >tough! ;-) Sorry it wasn't something more complicated!!!!! > >> > >> Terry Farrell > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Kevin E. Ramsey" <kevin.e.ramsey@cox.net> > >> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:05 PM > >> Subject: Re: Disklavier Question > >> > >> > >> Hi Terry, > >> The first thing that comes to mind is that she probably has the mute > >rail engaged. There is a box on the left side of the keybed. It has an > >on-off switch, and two knobs, volume and reverb. If she has the silent rail > >engaged and the volume pot all the way down, you won't hear anything. > >> That's probably whats happening here. There are volume controls for > >the speakers on the power supply in between the beams under the piano, > which > >have to be turned up somewhat for the speakers to work. But as far as > >getting the piano to play, if it doesn't, it must be the silent rail is > >engaged with the volume off. > >> Go out there, take your cell phone. If you run into trouble you can > call > >Yamaha at (800) 854-1569,, then 2,,then 2 to get right in to the support. > >They'll trouble shoot it with you on the line. I wouldn't lose too much > >sleep about it, it's probably something that will take you about 5 minutes > >to figure out. Let us know what you found, OK? > >> Kevin. > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: Farrell > >> To: pianotech@ptg.org > >> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 6:55 PM > >> Subject: Disklavier Question > >> > >> > >> I am stopping by a client's home tomorrow to look at her Yammy grand > >with a Disklavier. I told her I only know a VERY little about them, but she > >wants me to at least look at it (heck, maybe I'll find a cord not plugged > >in!). She says the piano has been set up for two years, but only recently > >she tried using it. She says the keys go up and down when she turns a disk > >on, but the piano makes no noise (no music). She thinks it has the Quiet > >Time feature (which I know almost nothing about). > >> > >> Anyone care to throw out a few things to look at? Thanks for any > crumbs. > >> > >> Again, I know almost nothing about these things (give me an hour and a > >bottle of rum and I MIGHT be able to figure out how to turn it on!). > >> > >> Terry Farrell > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > >Subject: Re: looking to replace my upright... > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 10:04:44 -0400 > >From: J Patrick Draine <draine@comcast.net> > >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > > > >On Sunday, July 20, 2003, at 03:50 AM, Stephen Airy wrote: > > > >> I did a little bit of thinking the last couple days on this subject. > >> I'm > >> thinking that maybe I should use my current upright to learn how to > >> hang > >> hammers and regulate an action (and maybe also replace whippens, > >> hammer > >> butts, or a few other things, but I haven't decided yet). > > > >Yep, stop thinking so much! Get yourself a good set of hammers, butts, > >and shanks, and get to work. Perhaps you should buy or borrow a hammer > >hanging jig, and certainly read relevant articles on the procedure > >(such as the one in Don Valley's series of articles "Behold the > >Upright!"). > > > >Patrick > > > > > >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 10:49:04 -0600 > >From: Chris Gregg <cdgregg@telus.net> > >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >I have a Samick grand action on my bench right now. The problem I thought > >was sticking jacks, but on further investigation, the problem was the > >flange on the top of the repetition post. The repetition was not returning > >and therefore the jack was sticking on the knuckle. I punched out the pin > >and noticed a residue on it, so then I punched out the bushing cloth to see > >what the problem really was. The cloth was hard. Too much glue on it, > >making the graphite stick to the pin. I re-bushed and re-pinned the > >offender, however, I do not see doing this to all the bad ones. I have > >re-pinned thousands of Young Chang action centres over the years. I was > >led to believe that there was a sizing problem with the action centre cloth > >at one time. Rep[inning I can handle, re-bushing is a pain in the you know > >what. > > > >Chris Gregg RPT > > > > At 07:50 PM 7/20/2003 +1000, you wrote: > >>No matter how 'gently' i try, i have never been able to put a cut centre > >>pin back in a bushing without knocking out the cloth! I would not > >>recommend trying this to anyone (unless they really want practise at > >>re-bushing flanges!). > >> > >>Scott Jackson > >>Australia > >> > >>----- Original Message ----- > >>From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> > >>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >>Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 10:07 AM > >>Subject: RE: Flange Center Friction Increase > >> > >> > >>| Terry > >>| Isaac Sadisgursky talked about this in his class on center pins at the > >>| Convention. He demonstrated how a center pin can be too tight in the > >>| bushing cloth and loose through the wood, just the opposite of what it > >>| should be. This problem can be spotted as you describe--fewer swings as > you > >>| go along. Here's his test: carefully remove the center pin from an > >>| offending flange. Gently place it back in the bushed flange and check > the > >>| friction just by pushing the pin with your fingernail. Now place the > same > >>| pin in the wood and push it with your fingernail. Chances are you can > push > >>| it right through the wood. The problem is caused by using the assembly > wire > >>| used in the flange to size the bushing cloth during manufacturing. When > the > >>| flange is installed, the worker slides the wire back to clear the other > >>| member then slides it through and cuts it to length, fitting done. > Isaac > >>| says to watch for centers that are clipped on both sides of the flange. > >>| This will tell you a wire had been used. He then went on to demonstrate > how > >>| to repin a set of flanges in about 45 minutes. > >>| Paul C > >>_______________________________________________ > >>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > http://www.tuneit.ca > > > > > > > > > >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 10:55:06 -0500 > >From: "James Grebe" <pianoman@accessus.net> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >I wonder since Y-C makes the Essex if this is going to be a problem with > >them also? > >James Grebe > >Piano Tuner-Technician > >Wood Artisan > >Established 1962 > >Creator of Wooden Artifacts such as: > >Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups > >Handsome Hardwood Piano Benches > >314 845-8282 > >1526 Raspberry Lane > >Arnold, MO 63010 > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Chris Gregg" <cdgregg@telus.net> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 11:49 AM > >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase > > > > > > > >> I have a Samick grand action on my bench right now. The problem I > thought > >> was sticking jacks, but on further investigation, the problem was the > >> flange on the top of the repetition post. The repetition was not > returning > >> and therefore the jack was sticking on the knuckle. I punched out the > pin > >> and noticed a residue on it, so then I punched out the bushing cloth to > >see > >> what the problem really was. The cloth was hard. Too much glue on it, > >> making the graphite stick to the pin. I re-bushed and re-pinned the > >> offender, however, I do not see doing this to all the bad ones. I have > >> re-pinned thousands of Young Chang action centres over the years. I was > >> led to believe that there was a sizing problem with the action centre > >cloth > >> at one time. Rep[inning I can handle, re-bushing is a pain in the you > >know > >> what. > >> > >> Chris Gregg RPT > >> > >> At 07:50 PM 7/20/2003 +1000, you wrote: > >> >No matter how 'gently' i try, i have never been able to put a cut centre > >> >pin back in a bushing without knocking out the cloth! I would not > >> >recommend trying this to anyone (unless they really want practise at > >> >re-bushing flanges!). > >> > > >> >Scott Jackson > >> >Australia > >> > > >> >----- Original Message ----- > >> >From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> > >> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >> >Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 10:07 AM > >> >Subject: RE: Flange Center Friction Increase > >> > > >> > > >> >| Terry > >> >| Isaac Sadisgursky talked about this in his class on center pins at the > >> >| Convention. He demonstrated how a center pin can be too tight in the > >> >| bushing cloth and loose through the wood, just the opposite of what it > >> >| should be. This problem can be spotted as you describe--fewer swings > >as you > >> >| go along. Here's his test: carefully remove the center pin from an > >> >| offending flange. Gently place it back in the bushed flange and check > >the > >> >| friction just by pushing the pin with your fingernail. Now place the > >same > >> >| pin in the wood and push it with your fingernail. Chances are you can > >push > >> >| it right through the wood. The problem is caused by using the > assembly > >wire > >> >| used in the flange to size the bushing cloth during manufacturing. > >When the > >> >| flange is installed, the worker slides the wire back to clear the > other > >> >| member then slides it through and cuts it to length, fitting done. > >Isaac > >> >| says to watch for centers that are clipped on both sides of the > flange. > >> >| This will tell you a wire had been used. He then went on to > >demonstrate how > >> >| to repin a set of flanges in about 45 minutes. > >> >| Paul C > >> >_______________________________________________ > >> >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >> > >> http://www.tuneit.ca > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > >Subject: Re: soundboardinstal > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:16:24 +0300 > >From: "Calin Tantareanu" <dnu@fx.ro> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > > > >> Assuming that you know what you want (including the number and placement > >of > >> ribs, bridges, and cutoff bar), why you want it, and how to calculate it, > > > >How would one calculate a soundboard & ribs? > >I have always wondered about this. > > > > > > > > Calin Tantareanu > >---------------------------------------------------- > > http://calintantareanu.tripod.com > >---------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > >Subject: Re: soundboardinstal > >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 12:17:20 -0500 > >From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@cox.net> > >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > > > >>How would one calculate a soundboard & ribs? > >>I have always wondered about this. > >> > >> Calin Tantareanu > > > >I don't know what anyone else does, but I do a load analysis of the rib set > >from the new string scale. Downbearing loads on each rib are used to > >calculate deflection, and the ribs are sized to give me the deflection > >ranges I want through each section of the scale. > > > >Ron N > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________ > McAfee VirusScan Online from the Netscape Network. > Comprehensive protection for your entire computer. Get your free trial > today! > http://channels.netscape.com/ns/computing/mcafee/index.jsp?promo=393397 > > Get AOL Instant Messenger 5.1 free of charge. Download Now! > http://aim.aol.com/aimnew/Aim/register.adp?promo=380455 > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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