Accu-just hitch pin removal

[Keith Roberts]

The cobalt tipped bits are the hardest and go through stainless steel the
best out of all the ones at the hardware store. I did some commercial
kitchen prep and the drill bits the table and countertop workmen had were
amazing and way to expensive for my boss to buy. Try the cobalt tipped or
anything that says it drills through stainless steel. There is also a
product called Drill eze that is a lubricant to help keep the bit cool.
Don't try and drill too fast, the heat ruins the bit. There is a drill bit
somewhere that will cut through that hitch pin. Talk to a local machinist.
Better to spend money on good drill bits than the time to pull the plate.
Good drill bits for wood and good drill bits for metal are two different
things.
Keith Roberts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: Accu-just hitch pin removal


Tom,
         Ron gives really good advice here. The only things that I would
add are that #1 you'll never drill through that pin and #2 od you have
enough left to squeeze and pull out?

Greg Newell


At 07:56 AM 7/2/2003, you wrote:


>>I came across my first broken Accu-just hitch pin (Baldwin SD 10O today.
>>I had the dickens of a time trying to remove the broken section imbedded
>>in the plate.
>>I was amazed at how harden of steel the material is made of. It made a
>>mockery out of my collection of drill bits. I was able to figure in a
>>temporary hitch pin configuration but I would be appreciate some
>>suggestions of removing the old material. My goal is to install a new
>>Accu-just hitch from Baldwin.
>>So far drill bits and some encouragement from a small punch haven't budge
>>the broken pin.
>>Tom Servinsky
>
>Wow Tom, congratulations and condolences on the first broken Accu-just
>hitch I've ever heard of.  Three possibilities for salvage come to mind.
>
>The first is driving the pin on through until it drops out the bottom of
>the plate. This would require that the plate be drilled all the way
>through (which I presume they would have to be, but can't guarantee they
>are. But that's what inspection mirrors are for), and that the distance
>from the bottom of the plate to the soundboard is greater than the
>remaining length of the pin. If the pin is too long to drive through
>without hitting the soundboard, there's plan two.
>
>The second is running a long small diameter drill bit, say a #40, down the
>middle of the hitch and through the soundboard. If the "gods of things in
>the way" smile on you (rarely), the bit will miss both ribs and posts,
>leaving a hole in the panel that you can get to for the next step. If so,
>drill out the small hole in the soundboard from underneath to a size you
>can either get a punch into to drive the pin up from the bottom, or down
>from the top and through the soundboard hole. If the #40 bit passes
>through a rib, you won't want to be making the hole big enough to pass a
>hitch pin through, so there's plan three.
>
>Third is either pulling the plate and driving the pin out, or drilling
>another hole in the plate and putting a new pin in a different place.
>
>Here's hoping the gods are in a good mood.
>
>Ron N
>
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>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>

Greg Newell
Greg's piano Forté
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net



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