Wooden action parts and frames

[Delwin D Fandrich]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillip Ford" <fordpiano@earthlink.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: February 19, 2003 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: Wooden action parts and frames



>
> >Of course, on yet the other hand, without the expanding and contracting
wood
> >fibers the screws might not loosen up in the first place.
> >
> >Del
>
> It was my thought that the screws might not loosen in the first
> place.  This, and the fact that the metal would not move around causing
the bushing to get tighter or looser, were the reasons I thought there would
be some advantage to it.  I suppose it would be easy enough to install a few
on a sample piano and find out.  One thing I'm not sure about is sizing the
bushing in the metal flange.  I'm not sure how bushings are normally
installed or sized.  I believe the way Renner does it is to string several
bushed flanges on a wire of some appropriate size and soak them in a
solution (proprietary?) for some period of time and then let them dry on the
wire.  Perhaps this is only sizing the felt and so the same thing could be
done with the metal flange.  If it is also sizing the wood then the result
might not be the same with a metal flange.
----------------------


Keeping in mind the whole while that the hammershank bushings are not
typically put in the hammershank flange, but in the fork of the hammershank
itself. It's the one lone exception to what would otherwise be the rule. It
could be reversed if only the repetition lever upstop adjustment screw could
easily (i.e., inexpensively) be relocated.

The method of felt sizing you describe is pretty standard for the industry.

Del