Keytop trimming

[David Love]

Yes.  I have a block of wood with a hole cut in the center through which
the router protrudes.  It has pins that lock it into position on the router
table. The block is covered with felt to prevent scratching.  I also use a
router to rough cut the notches.  The jig is rather complicated to explain
but it holds the key and slides through the bit to cut the notch. 
Afterward it is all cleaned up with a file.  

David Love
davidlovepianos@earthlink.net



> [Original Message]
> From: gordon stelter <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>; <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>
> Date: 2/14/2003 8:03:05 PM
> Subject: Keytop trimming
>
> I presume that you trim on a table with the key upside
> down, right?
>      Thanks!
>      Thump
>      The Notchin' Novice
>      
>
> --- David Love <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > Yes, but be careful at the fronts that you done take
> > off the lip.  Just use
> > it along the edges for rough trimming and then clean
> > with a file.
> > 
> > David Love
> > davidlovepianos@earthlink.net
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: gordon stelter <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> > > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Date: 2/14/2003 7:06:22 PM
> > > Subject: Re: (no subject)
> > >
> > > Does anyone use a laminate trimmer router bit for
> > > keytops? If not, why? If so, how, if you pleeze?
> > >      Thump
> > >
> > > --- John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> > > > Hi,
> > > > Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean
> > off
> > > > with water.
> > > > I take the keytop surface down to compenasate
> > for
> > > > the different thickness, of the one piece
> > plastic
> > > > keytop I use.
> > > > I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this.
> > > > I still use a disc/belt sander to get the
> > keytops
> > > > close to size , and finish off with a file.
> > > > I would not use contact cement.
> > > > There is no telling how long it will take you to
> > do
> > > > your first job, I remember one guy telling me it
> > > > took him 12 hours.
> > > > Your time will improve as you get your methods
> > and
> > > > jigs in line.
> > > > Regards,
> > > > John M. Ross
> > > > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> > > > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
> > > >   ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > >   From: Mickey Kessler 
> > > >   To: pianotech@ptg.org 
> > > >   Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09 PM
> > > >   Subject: (no subject)
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >   Hi all,
> > > > 
> > > >   I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a
> > PSO
> > > > owned by my cousin.  If this were a really good
> > > > instrument I'd probably just send the keys out
> > to a
> > > > recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole
> > thing
> > > > over to somebody who's really into rebuilding,
> > which
> > > > I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather,
> > an
> > > > opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it
> > for
> > > > the experience.
> > > > 
> > > >   A few questions:
> > > > 
> > > >   1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based
> > on
> > > > using contact cement.  This scares me; it
> > doesn't
> > > > allow for much error.  On the other hand, if I
> > use
> > > > more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping,
> > which
> > > > the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says
> > to
> > > > shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to
> > line
> > > > up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  Can
> > anybody
> > > > recommend a better procedure that will also
> > ensure
> > > > uniformity?  And while we're on the subject,
> > what's
> > > > the best glue to use?
> > > > 
> > > >   2.  The supply houses sell a variety of
> > keytops. 
> > > > Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and
> > fronts
> > > > as opposed to two-piece?  I'm thinking now that
> > I'll
> > > > use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble?
> > Would I
> > > > learn more by using two-piece?  Should I get
> > thick
> > > > or thin or doesn't it matter?  Do the one-piece
> > tops
> > > > require clamping in two directions?
> > > > 
> > > >   3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the
> > > > wood?  Can I do that without the expensive
> > Oslund
> > > > machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad must
> > the
> > > > surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm
> > > > guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a
> > lot
> > > > of unevenness -- am I wrong?
> > > > 
> > > >   4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should
> > > > allot for the job?
> > > > 
> > > >   Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all
> > your
> > > > knowledge.  I've learned more from this group
> > than
> > > > from just about any other source.  The
> > generosity of
> > > > this profession is truly admirable.
> > > > 
> > > >   Mickey Kessler
> > > >   PTG Assoc.
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > >
> > >
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