Yes, but be careful at the fronts that you done take off the lip. Just use it along the edges for rough trimming and then clean with a file. David Love davidlovepianos@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: gordon stelter <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > Date: 2/14/2003 7:06:22 PM > Subject: Re: (no subject) > > Does anyone use a laminate trimmer router bit for > keytops? If not, why? If so, how, if you pleeze? > Thump > > --- John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote: > > Hi, > > Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean off > > with water. > > I take the keytop surface down to compenasate for > > the different thickness, of the one piece plastic > > keytop I use. > > I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this. > > I still use a disc/belt sander to get the keytops > > close to size , and finish off with a file. > > I would not use contact cement. > > There is no telling how long it will take you to do > > your first job, I remember one guy telling me it > > took him 12 hours. > > Your time will improve as you get your methods and > > jigs in line. > > Regards, > > John M. Ross > > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada > > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Mickey Kessler > > To: pianotech@ptg.org > > Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09 PM > > Subject: (no subject) > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO > > owned by my cousin. If this were a really good > > instrument I'd probably just send the keys out to a > > recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing > > over to somebody who's really into rebuilding, which > > I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather, an > > opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for > > the experience. > > > > A few questions: > > > > 1. Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on > > using contact cement. This scares me; it doesn't > > allow for much error. On the other hand, if I use > > more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping, which > > the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to > > shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to line > > up all the keyfronts exactly the same). Can anybody > > recommend a better procedure that will also ensure > > uniformity? And while we're on the subject, what's > > the best glue to use? > > > > 2. The supply houses sell a variety of keytops. > > Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and fronts > > as opposed to two-piece? I'm thinking now that I'll > > use the one-piece. Am I asking for trouble? Would I > > learn more by using two-piece? Should I get thick > > or thin or doesn't it matter? Do the one-piece tops > > require clamping in two directions? > > > > 3. Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the > > wood? Can I do that without the expensive Oslund > > machines that Reblitz describes? How bad must the > > surface be before it should be resurfaced? I'm > > guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a lot > > of unevenness -- am I wrong? > > > > 4. Any thoughts about how much time I should > > allot for the job? > > > > Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all your > > knowledge. I've learned more from this group than > > from just about any other source. The generosity of > > this profession is truly admirable. > > > > Mickey Kessler > > PTG Assoc. > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day > http://shopping.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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