(no subject)

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Gordon,
I did for a while but found that a belt sander was easier for me to control.
No jumping and ruining a top.
I now do the final notch with a special file with no cutting surface on the
sides. See my site. The tool is used with a 4 foot long strap iron 1" wide,
clamped to the keys while in the piano key bed. The sharps are removed.
Square notches every time!
Joe Goss
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: (no subject)


> Does anyone use a laminate trimmer router bit for
> keytops? If not, why? If so, how, if you pleeze?
>      Thump
>
> --- John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> > Hi,
> > Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean off
> > with water.
> > I take the keytop surface down to compenasate for
> > the different thickness, of the one piece plastic
> > keytop I use.
> > I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this.
> > I still use a disc/belt sander to get the keytops
> > close to size , and finish off with a file.
> > I would not use contact cement.
> > There is no telling how long it will take you to do
> > your first job, I remember one guy telling me it
> > took him 12 hours.
> > Your time will improve as you get your methods and
> > jigs in line.
> > Regards,
> > John M. Ross
> > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Mickey Kessler
> >   To: pianotech@ptg.org
> >   Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09 PM
> >   Subject: (no subject)
> >
> >
> >   Hi all,
> >
> >   I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO
> > owned by my cousin.  If this were a really good
> > instrument I'd probably just send the keys out to a
> > recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing
> > over to somebody who's really into rebuilding, which
> > I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather, an
> > opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for
> > the experience.
> >
> >   A few questions:
> >
> >   1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on
> > using contact cement.  This scares me; it doesn't
> > allow for much error.  On the other hand, if I use
> > more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping, which
> > the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to
> > shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to line
> > up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  Can anybody
> > recommend a better procedure that will also ensure
> > uniformity?  And while we're on the subject, what's
> > the best glue to use?
> >
> >   2.  The supply houses sell a variety of keytops.
> > Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and fronts
> > as opposed to two-piece?  I'm thinking now that I'll
> > use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble? Would I
> > learn more by using two-piece?  Should I get thick
> > or thin or doesn't it matter?  Do the one-piece tops
> > require clamping in two directions?
> >
> >   3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the
> > wood?  Can I do that without the expensive Oslund
> > machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad must the
> > surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm
> > guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a lot
> > of unevenness -- am I wrong?
> >
> >   4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should
> > allot for the job?
> >
> >   Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all your
> > knowledge.  I've learned more from this group than
> > from just about any other source.  The generosity of
> > this profession is truly admirable.
> >
> >   Mickey Kessler
> >   PTG Assoc.
> >
> >
>
>
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