(no subject)

[John Ross]

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Hi,
Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean off with water.
I take the keytop surface down to compenasate for the different thickness, of the one piece plastic keytop I use.
I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this.
I still use a disc/belt sander to get the keytops close to size , and finish off with a file.
I would not use contact cement.
There is no telling how long it will take you to do your first job, I remember one guy telling me it took him 12 hours.
Your time will improve as you get your methods and jigs in line.
Regards,
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mickey Kessler 
  To: pianotech@ptg.org 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09 PM
  Subject: (no subject)


  Hi all,

  I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO owned by my cousin.  If this were a really good instrument I'd probably just send the keys out to a recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing over to somebody who's really into rebuilding, which I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather, an opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for the experience.

  A few questions:

  1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on using contact cement.  This scares me; it doesn't allow for much error.  On the other hand, if I use more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping, which the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to line up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  Can anybody recommend a better procedure that will also ensure uniformity?  And while we're on the subject, what's the best glue to use?

  2.  The supply houses sell a variety of keytops.  Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and fronts as opposed to two-piece?  I'm thinking now that I'll use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble? Would I learn more by using two-piece?  Should I get thick or thin or doesn't it matter?  Do the one-piece tops require clamping in two directions?

  3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the wood?  Can I do that without the expensive Oslund machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad must the surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a lot of unevenness -- am I wrong?

  4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should allot for the job?

  Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all your knowledge.  I've learned more from this group than from just about any other source.  The generosity of this profession is truly admirable.

  Mickey Kessler
  PTG Assoc.


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