This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Some comments (won't answer all questions): 1. Contact cement will eat holes in the plastic if it gets on the playing surface and isn't IMMEDIATELY wiped off. Getting the alignment thing right is not as scare as it sounds. Keeping the keytops clean is as scary as I've tried to make it sound, here. I had to redo about 20 keys, my first time, because I thought -- aint' ignorance grand -- I could just clean them up by rolling the glue off like rubber cement on paper (Hey, it LOOKS like rubber cement!) If there is a better glue, I want to hear about it. Some have recommended thick CA with a white glue "kicker" (see archives). Haven't tried it; seems like it would make the alignment thing really scary. 2. If the old tops come off without taking a lot of wood, a little light, light sanding will prepare old keys for gluing on plastic covers. Use WET rag and hot iron to soften the old glue. With luck the old tops will peal right off. If they are true ivories, BTW, "pop" them off (after steaming, if necessary) and save the best ones--or send them to me! 3. If the fronts will come off--I have had good luck with a beveled scraper like the Red Devil 5-in-one painter's tool and using a hammer to tap the bevel between the head and the keystick--then replace with a top & front single top (Schaff 1391 or 1391 are fine). If the fronts are stubborn and/or are in good shape, you can just use tops w/o fronts but match the color as best you can--Vagias has great selection (Ventures, Inc. 724-869-2842). Match original thickness to avoid problems. 4. First time, plan on several evenings at your workbench ... Have fun. Alan Barnard Salem, MO -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Mickey Kessler Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 7:09 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: (no subject) Hi all, I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO owned by my cousin. If this were a really good instrument I'd probably just send the keys out to a recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing over to somebody who's really into rebuilding, which I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather, an opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for the experience. A few questions: 1. Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on using contact cement. This scares me; it doesn't allow for much error. On the other hand, if I use more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping, which the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to line up all the keyfronts exactly the same). Can anybody recommend a better procedure that will also ensure uniformity? And while we're on the subject, what's the best glue to use? 2. The supply houses sell a variety of keytops. Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and fronts as opposed to two-piece? I'm thinking now that I'll use the one-piece. Am I asking for trouble? Would I learn more by using two-piece? Should I get thick or thin or doesn't it matter? Do the one-piece tops require clamping in two directions? 3. Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the wood? Can I do that without the expensive Oslund machines that Reblitz describes? How bad must the surface be before it should be resurfaced? I'm guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a lot of unevenness -- am I wrong? 4. Any thoughts about how much time I should allot for the job? Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all your knowledge. I've learned more from this group than from just about any other source. The generosity of this profession is truly admirable. Mickey Kessler PTG Assoc. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/82/da/95/19/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC