I don't think you're missing anything. You can do it that way too, if you want. I find my method more controllable and easier. David Love davidlovepianos@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: Avery Todd <avery@ev1.net> > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>; <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net> > Date: 4/29/2003 5:46:20 PM > Subject: RE: keyframe bedding > > David, > > Am I missing something? Why not just turn up the "tuning pin" bedding > screws little by > little, while tapping on them with your palm, until you hear a knocking? Do > it on all of > them, then go back and turn them down just enough to stop the knocking. > With the > cheek blocks screwed in, of course. :-) > > Avery > > At 05:25 PM 04/29/03 -0700, you wrote: > >On a Steinway the bedding should be done with the cheek blocks screwed > >down. That may solve your problem. If the block bears down to much and > >restricts the use of the una corda pedal you can shim the front of the > >cheek block with some card stock. You may notice that the front of the > >blocks are already shimmed, many are. A simple way to check the bedding > >is to press on the glide screws with your wrench and you will see the keys > >dip slightly if the glide is not bedded. First raise all the glides so > >you get some movement with each one. Then, starting from the middle > >working out, wedge your hand up underneath between the pinblock and the > >wrench which is resting on top of the glide bolt , and by cupping your > >hand you can flex the key bed downward. You will see the keys dip > >slightly. You can put a Jaras leveler on the white keys if you have one > >which will make it easier to see&nbs! > >p;movement. When the movement stops go to the next one. Go back through > >again to double check. It's a lot faster than sliding paper around and it > >works just fine. You should be able to bed the key frame in a few minutes. > > > >David Love > ><mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>davidlovepianos@earthlink.net > > > > > >>----- Original Message ----- > >>From: <mailto:hullfam5@yahoo.com>Bob Hull > >>To: <mailto:pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org > >>Sent: 4/29/2003 4:34:51 PM > >>Subject: keyframe bedding > >> > >>Dear List, > >>I'm working on a Steinway M regulation and on bedding the keyframe. (Not > >>the same one I had a question on about a month ago.) I thought I had > >>accomplished this already- but the knocking on the bass end has returned > >>during the process of the other regulation steps. I'm wondering if when > >>I regulated the balance rail studs it came back. I used the sliding paper > >>method and felt good about the results. So, as I found this knocking I > >>returned to the keybedding and I did some more sanding on the bottom of > >>the front rail but no progress seems to be coming about - the bass end > >>still knocks when you tap on it. Both ends of the frame knock when > >>tapped, but the treble stops when you put the cheek block on, but the > >>bass end still knocks. I measured the thickness of the front rail on > >>both ends and the middle. Bass end is .836; middle of front rail is .881 > >>and treble end is .850 or .860. I know the keybed is crowne! ! d up in > >>the middle and the keyframe is reverse crowned. Here's my question: > >>What would you think of painting a layer of epoxy on the bottom of the > >>bass end of the rail to thicken it rather than sanding/thinning the whole > >>rest of the rail until that knocking went away? (The knocking begins > >>about 1 octave from the bass end.) > >>Also, with this crowned/reverse crown between keyframe and keybed should > >>the testing of the bedding be always done with cheek blocks screwed in? > >>One other question to drown you with - do you reflect the crowned keybed > >>in the key leveling? I have heard yes and no on this. > >>Thanks. > >>Bob Hull > >> > >> > >>Do you Yahoo!? > >><http://us.rd.yahoo.com/search/mailsig/*http://search.yahoo.com>The New > >>Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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