Hi Joe: Re-reading you original idea, I see that it would work well. If you're going to Dallas, I'll bring a picture of my table saw jig which hold the key firmly and the stop block that positions the end of the key much as you describe. Maybe you can take a picture of your setup for me to look at. I'm always interested in new and better ways to do things. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe And Penny Goss" <imatunr@srvinet.com> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 10:45 PM Subject: Re: Mitre saw keyfront removal. > Mike, > I have to strongly disagree, at least for this clutz. > My jig holds the key for me with a little help from my left hand while my > right hand opperates the saw blade. Quick as 5 seconds per key the key top > surface is prepared. I have tried the table saw and the radial or chop saw > with a large blade is by far the best for my use. > At the present the jig is on loan to be cloned. > I hope to get it back in a month. > Joe Goss > imatunr@srvinet.com > www.mothergoosetools.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike Kurta" <mkurta@adelphia.net> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 8:14 PM > Subject: Re: Mitre saw keyfront removal. > > > > Table saw works better-no flex or wobble, more accurate and safer too. > > Mike Kurta > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <tune4u@earthlink.net> > > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 9:15 PM > > Subject: RE: Mitre saw keyfront removal. > > > > > > > Sounds very reasonable. I'd want to make darned sure nothing moved, so > > maybe > > > a mark scribed or drawn on the sawbed or guide at the end of your > clamped > > > stop block? > > > > > > Alan > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On > > > Behalf Of gordon stelter > > > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 7:53 PM > > > To: Pianotech > > > Subject: Mitre saw keyfront removal. > > > > > > > > > I haven't tried this yet, but it occurred to me that > > > an accurate way to remove keyfronts with a "chop-saw" > > > might be as follows: > > > 1) Place a key to the left or right of the saw > > > blade, depending on the "dogleg's" necessity to stay > > > clear of rear fence. Place it under the blade so that > > > exactly the right amount will be trimmed off. > > > 2) Take a block of some stable material and butt > > > it against that key's front. Then clamp another block > > > to the saw base, butted up against the far end of the > > > first. > > > 3) Now, by butting your "measuring block" > > > against the permanently clamped "stop block" and then > > > clamping the key in place against the "measuring > > > block" before tremoving it, the keys should all have > > > exactly the same amount of front trimmed off, > > > presuming no blade wobble. > > > If anyone has a better idea, I would love to hear > > > of it. > > > Thanks! > > > Thump > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more > > > http://tax.yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC