This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Hello, I find the tone of Abel hammers always stronger but less open than Renners. Indeed they surely press more, or heat more the fiber (I like their moldings better eventually) My experience with Abel, while many like their hammers, is that they tend to sound a little 'cardboarding' with not enough mellowness. Sorry if I was not clear about the Renner blue , I had one sample of one hammer and I tried it on a piano. Of course it is not enough to understand how to treat them. it was not at all sounding dead, but had very low additional tension, and a slow rebound figure, as I can see on some US Steinway (longer string time contact) The felt was not really soft but I felt the tension was distributed more or less from the center of the molding all around, only by pressure, as in cold pressed hammers, by opposition of hard pressed which have a lot of tension appearing from the inside towards the top of the hammer since they are needled. I understood that to voice them you use the natural resiliency of the hammer, I believe that the low needling can't be done extensively (as on stapled hammers on witch you can almost transform the underside in cotton if you are to take the last resources out of old heads.), as then when you needle, all the fiber will react, while when there is a staple, hopefully the inside will move more than the outside when "battery" needled (why, because there is more felt near the middle of the hammer than on the outer edges) Voicing where the crown is less tensioned tend to last longer, as being less an equilibrium state than more European style' voicing. But the crown being less tensioned is more reactive to string mating, capo noise and so on. I've always noticed that on a very dynamic hammer that respond well even to soft playing, it is easier to tune even unisons, and mask the defects in the high spectra. if the power appears only with a more stronger play, then more zinging is there generally. On Abel hammers if you obtain that extra compression in the crown, you could install a somewhat deep (4mm) damping zone near of it mostly on the back side of the hammer, so you keep the benefit of highly tensioned crown without the hard knocking when played medium (some knocking remains). That will cut a bit in medium playing spectra, but can add a clear layer of change in the sound that can be agreeable. I've seen that kind of voicing and they are OK, the crown then is springy in a vertical plane, the "hole lessen the knocking when the hammer deform on impact, the front high side remain more progressive but harder, as more involved in heavy playing. it is probably a faster method that trying to even everything while taking risk to loose too much power. (but it is probably what you do with the single needle) Beside, all the hard spots remaining are reserves of energy for future maintenance, so you can have things treated differently after that if you wish. yesterday I experimented on shot Steinway hammers I was about to replace (on a D) and , using a single long needle (8 mm) I tried to find hard spots in the zone of felt above the staple & under the shoulders but nearer the molding than usually. It was amazing that the hammers became very fast totally playable and round and pleasing (these where 'old style Steinway Hamburg hammers') The hammers even grow a bit and they could be shaped a little and used as that for some time. Incredible is the quantity of resource available there on these (very strong')hammers. Best regards. Isaac O -----Message d'origine----- De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la part de David Love Envoyé : dimanche 22 septembre 2002 06:42 À : Pianotech Objet : Importance of the staple: was hammer felt (Renner Blues) If you mean that the staple is important in high humidity areas to ensure the hammer doesn't come apart, I'm not sure I agree. My experience is that if the glue joint fails, no staple will hold it together. As far as the hammer experiencing changes in tension, I must admit that living in an environment with fairly constant humidity year round (and a bit on the high side), I've never thought about tension in the hammer changing from season to season and with it the tone. On the surface it makes sense. I wonder though whether the change is enough to create a real perceptible difference, or if it does, how you would separate that change from tonal changes that might occur as a result of changes in the crown of the board. Difficult to tease out all the variables. The other question, however, still remains. How important is the staple for creating tension in the lower part of the hammer. The proponents of the Renner blue evidently feel that it is unimportant. I know from listening to Brooks and the Abel clan that they feel it is a crucial part of the hammer. Isaac O's remarks suggest that the stapled Renner is a different animal than the Renner blue in spite of the similarities in felt type. I have to say that my experience suggests that the Renner blue has a high degree of tension in the felt which is responsive to needling. The Renner hammer used for H. Steinway is also highly tensioned, and much harder at the outset. My experience tells me that the needling requirements to get the H. Steinway hammer to open up are just that much greater. But when all is said and done, is what you have left all that much different? I haven't really done a side by side comparison. Maybe somebody out there has. I'd be interested to hear what they think. One interesting sidebar to this is that I have found out the hard way that you need to be careful when (if) preneedling the Abel hammer. It is very easy to release a tremendous amount of tension into the crown of the hammer which can make the hammer very bright and difficult to work with. Whereas I almost always preneedle Renner hammers feeling for some give in the shoulders with a firm squeeze as I go, I find that a slower approach is more advisable with Abel hammers. David Love ----- Original Message ----- From: Tony Caught To: Pianotech Sent: September 21, 2002 7:43 PM Subject: Re: hammer felt (Renner Blues) Dave, You wrote The importance of the staple is somewhat controversial. There are those who argue that it adds tension to the lower part of the hammer and those who say it doesn't make any difference. The Renner blue is, of course, without a staple. Not having a staple would mean that you cannot use this hammer in high humidity conditions. However, As the hammer absorbs moisture from the air, the tension created varies greatly as does the tone. Possibly being not stapled would allow this increase of tension to spread more evenly over the hammer and not be restricted by the staple. Tony Caught caute@optusnet.com.au ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/32/da/2a/33/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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