Sure. Us a clean sheet of plywood, or scrub the dirty one with a wire brush and soapy water and let dry before putting it in a customer's beloved piano. " Do unto others...." --- Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@cox.net> wrote: > > >Roger, Roger, you flatter me to the point of > sillyness! I appreciate your > >input, but no one has entrusted me to put my first > soundboard into their > >S&S D! > > I don't know, Terry. Doesn't seem that flattering to > me to have someone > suggest I might know where a S&S D is and can go > measure it. Heck, I've > actually even gotten in my truck and driven a couple > of miles to get that > sort of information. But I'm a hard head, so I > suppose that's understandable. > > > > >My first board will go in a no-name micro-grand. > However, I have the need > >to make up a set of clamping cauls and I wish for > them to work on any grand. > > An interesting assumption. Based on what, I wonder. > What would make the S&S > D the universal template? > > > > if I remember correctly (I have not seen many > pianos with the boards > > out!) the width of the soundboard/rim contact area > is most often not the > > full width of the inner rim. > > Often not. > > > > My concern is that if I make my cauls out of > 1.5-inch thick lumber and > > make the bottom edge at a one degree angle (I'll > have to check and see > > what angle most rims are beveled at - but I think > it is close to one > > degree) to meet the rim bevel, I might be > stressing the highly-crowned > > board a bit. Perhaps a one or two degree > difference between board angle > > and caul bottom angle is just a not a concern. > > Except for not getting a decent glue joint if you > can't force the board to > the bevel. I think it's important to glue a panel > down solidly. > > > >Any opinions? > >Terry Farrell > > Yes. The easiest way around this, with stone age > tooling, that I've ever > come across is an idea I cheerfully stole from Shawn > Hoar. I go to my local > lumberyard, find a sheet of 3/4" plywood that was on > the outside of the > bundle and has forklift tracks, scratches, nicks, > dings, and strapping > marks all over one side. Pointing out that they can > either throw it away, > or sell it to the only guy likely to come along who > is willing to buy it > for half price, I most often take home a $10 sheet > of nice plywood that's > clean on one side. From that, I cut and piece > together a full perimeter > caul matching the inner rim width all around. When > the soundboard goes in, > that caul (clean side down) distributes clamp > pressure so I don't mark up > the panel with my clamping blocks, which are made > from 3/4+" scrap lumber. > Even while distributing clamping pressure, the caul > is flexible enough > to conform to any rim bevel I've run across, or > produced, so I know the > panel is clamped to the rim across the full width of > the rim. Very low > tech, and more effective than anything else I've > tried. While I do waste a > sheet of plywood every other piano, it's something > that someone else has > already rendered into trash by poor handling, so I > consider it salvage more > than waste. I like this method a lot, though I'd > certainly be interested in > hearing better ideas. > > Ron N > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com
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