separated pin block

[Farrell]

Sounds like a good way to make this repair real neat. I have bent a couple BIG "C" clamps doing this repair. I have found pipe clamps to work better for me. But hey, that's just me!  ;-)

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre" <baldwin@mta-01.sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: separated pin block


> Hi Leslie,
>                   I have fixed dozens of these type of problems.  More 
> often than not the lag bolts will only go in to the pin block assembly, and 
> many of the bolts are actually pushing the back assembly away from the pin 
> block.
> Drop the tension off the strings.
> Get some lag bolts that will about the length of the top thickness.  Drill 
> a clearance hole through the block material, and the correct sized pilot 
> hole through the back assembly.
> When gluing and screwing two pieces of wood together, it is wise to have a 
> clearance hole through the first piece, and the correct sized pilot hole in 
> the second. This will prevent the screw thread from pushing one piece of 
> lumber away from the other, which is what has happened so often before.
> With the aid of about 6 good C clamps, dry fit the joint back 
> together.   Drill holes. Insert long lag bolts.  remove clamps to check to 
> see if the bolts hold.
> Remove bolts. the split will open up.
> Use west system epoxy, ( or equivalent) ( water thin type) work lots into 
> crack.  Tighten clamps and bolts, making sure you have squeeze out.  Clean 
> excess epoxy with acetone soaked rag.
> This will give you an invisible repair.No protruding nuts at the rear of 
> the piano to scar the customers wall.  The long lag bolts that Yamaha 
> grands have in their packing cases are perfect for most jobs.
> Wait at least 24hrs before putting the tension back on.
> I think I would get rid of that heater box, and install a proper Damp 
> Chaser with a control system.
> Regards Roger
>